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sewlow

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Gotta remember though, on pre-94 trucks you have to balance the cost of a gear swap with the effort of either: A) Finding a new cluster with the correct ratio, or B) Gerrymandering your current cluster in the hope you can follow sketchy directions on how to solder in a DIP switch in order to change the speedometer to read correctly.

Missed the fact that his truck is pre-'94. Just wondering, though, didn't a fair amont of 4X4's come with 3.42's & 3.73's from the factory? Might not be that hard to find a compatible cluster, if that's so, & if the 2X4's use the same as the 4X4's.
 

Chris

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I've never heard of anyone doing this swap...please explain :popcorn:

It's been done hundreds if not thousands of times. The torque converters that came with 4.3L engines were designed to stall just a few hundred rpm higher due to the lower torque output of the V6. When coupled with a V8, they'll stall higher than the OEM converter GM stuck behind them, helping acceleration. AKA the fluid coupling increases the mechanical advantage of the engine. It's a good, CHEAP upgrade that retains OEM quality in a world filled with junk converters. Especially important in 97-up vehicles that use woven carbon fiber clutch material to withstand constant slipping with GMs pulse-width management lockup strategy.
 

Chris

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Missed the fact that his truck is pre-'94. Just wondering, though, didn't a fair amont of 4X4's come with 3.42's & 3.73's from the factory? Might not be that hard to find a compatible cluster, if that's so, & if the 2X4's use the same as the 4X4's.

As many of those as were made, it shouldn't be hard to find one. Whether it works or not is a different story.
 

silverado13

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I've heard a lot about guys running the converter from a 4.3 v6 behind even stock 350s and having noticeable increases in stall speed. Just a way to use factory parts, retain stock lockup characteristics, and get a bit of a gain off the line.

I believe, but could be wrong, the converters are the same size, but the one set up for the v6 is obviously a bit looser, allowing the less powerful motor to stall at a similar engine speed. Apply more torque, stall speed will go up some amount. Unfortunately, the converter in my wonton is so tight, unless I'm hooked to something heavy, it won't budge much past 1600rpm. But I'm solving this with a 8.1/4l85 swap, probably with a baby cam and port job, once work space allows it.

I've never personally done this v6 converter behind a 350, so please do some homework before delving into this. If I can find more information, I'll post it.

thats very interesting, ive never heard of that, you know of any good companys for converters?
 

Klumpper

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Yup, go to the local GM dealership, get a factory part. I bought my last fuel lines that way and it was very comparable to buying aftermarket lines.

It's not often you hear of a factory converter failing. I found some random places selling gm converters for 150-200 bucks, but give the parts department a call.
 

Vigh_J

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It's been done hundreds if not thousands of times. The torque converters that came with 4.3L engines were designed to stall just a few hundred rpm higher due to the lower torque output of the V6. When coupled with a V8, they'll stall higher than the OEM converter GM stuck behind them, helping acceleration. AKA the fluid coupling increases the mechanical advantage of the engine. It's a good, CHEAP upgrade that retains OEM quality in a world filled with junk converters. Especially important in 97-up vehicles that use woven carbon fiber clutch material to withstand constant slipping with GMs pulse-width management lockup strategy.

Very Cool, i like that!
 

narizon

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Thanks Chris,been researching the 95+ 4.3L V6 (RPO L35),looks good.This is the rout I will take.
The GM converter is p/n 24202310 rated at 2200 rpm stall & a direct bolt in which is a major plus.......

Just some info i found out ,it's basically it's just a Corvette converter.GM used 3 different types for the 700r4.Low,medium & high stall.The low stall was used in TBI trucks and most TBi equiped Camaro's ,the medium stall used in everything else.The high stall was used in 4.3 liter s-10's and Corvetts. Reason why is because they (4.3L V6 ) had no bottom end and the converter was able to take care of the problem.a permanent band aid.As for the Vett's is was a perfect OEM performance match.............

Hope this helps out others looking to into a GM OEM high stall .Price wise,I will be going to GM dealer & finding out.Will post a 2011 price $$$$ later.
 
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silverado13

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Thanks Chris,been researching the 95+ 4.3L V6 (RPO L35),looks good.This is the rout I will take.
The GM converter is p/n 24202310 rated at 2200 rpm stall & a direct bolt in which is a major plus.......

Just some info i found out ,it's basically it's just a Corvette converter.GM used 3 different types for the 700r4.Low,medium & high stall.The low stall was used in TBI trucks and most TBi equiped Camaro's ,the medium stall used in everything else.The high stall was used in 4.3 liter s-10's and Corvetts. Reason why is because they (4.3L V6 ) had no bottom end and the converter was able to take care of the problem.a permanent band aid.As for the Vett's is was a perfect OEM performance match.............

Hope this helps out others looking to into a GM OEM high stall .Price wise,I will be going to GM dealer & finding out.Will post a 2011 price $$$$ later.

im debating on doing this "half ass" or doing it right, i know i can get a torgue converter from the junk yard for $25 and they have so many s10s and blazers that its not even funny, or im thinking about just going after market with a 2800 stall converter, idk though
 

Klumpper

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Personally, I'd be leery of a junkyard converter for the sole reason of you're not sure what it went through, and what's in the fluid in the converter. If the price is an extra 150 bucks, for example, it's much more worth it for me than having to pull the trans a 2nd time to replace a shot converter or get the trans fixed as debris got flushed out. i.e., how old is the fluid in the 'yard converter and what's it going to do when it mixes with the stuff in the trans.
 

Chris

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im debating on doing this "half ass" or doing it right, i know i can get a torgue converter from the junk yard for $25 and they have so many s10s and blazers that its not even funny, or im thinking about just going after market with a 2800 stall converter, idk though

A "good" aftermarket converter will run you $500+. **** from Summit/Jegs/etc won't last at all.
 
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