Oil consumption with no blue exhaust ?

[Tom P]

If you have a knock at start up that goes away after a minute or two, its probably from excessive carbon buildup. Had my 2001 K1500 in the shop for a dead fuel pump issue so I asked the guys at the Chevy dealer why it made that issue and they said it was extremely common in the 5.3L engines and was usually caused by excessive carbon in the combustion chamber. If you are experiencing oil consumption then its very likely that that is causing the carbon build up, thus leading to your knock or piston slap, or whatever you'd like to call it.

 

[TylerZ281500]

could be lifter related too folks

 

[TylerZ281500]

Compression test is OK,
every cylinder has similar compression without big difference (dispersion between higher and lower value is less than 5%)
But I didn't add oil and didn't test it again

What's for oil, it's difficult to buy American oil in Russia. We have mobil as the most popular, also we use liqui moly, elf, shell, mannol and some Russian brends.
Ah, petro Canada is the one oil from North America brends here, but quite expensive.

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you have good english for a russian fella. high five to you. i didnt realize this, regardless if you get shell you should get rotella, otherwise id look for something zinc additive or that has zinc in it for future use.

 

[AlexHawk94]

Piston slap does not happen for a few seconds at start up and then go silent, as you previously described. Piston slap is a sound like a diesel engine makes idling, a chattering and it gradually lessens as the engine warms up to full temp, pistons fit the bores better. What you are hearing is most definitely bearing noise, specifically rod bearing noise. My truck does it to, very slightly. It has 250K miles on it, so it doesn't owe me anything. I'm content with it till it makes that noise continuously. Then I'll just yank it out and put a crate engine in it's place and motor on.

If your rings were truly bad you'd be fogged out by blue smoke, 'specially since you said there's no catalytic converter.

If your engine was overheated it is very likely the heads, or a head is cracked. Those heads don't fair well when overheated.

If you have a knock at start up that goes away after a minute or two, its probably from excessive carbon buildup. Had my 2001 K1500 in the shop for a dead fuel pump issue so I asked the guys at the Chevy dealer why it made that issue and they said it was extremely common in the 5.3L engines and was usually caused by excessive carbon in the combustion chamber. If you are experiencing oil consumption then its very likely that that is causing the carbon build up, thus leading to your knock or piston slap, or whatever you'd like to call it.

you have good english for a russian fella. high five to you. i didnt realize this, regardless if you get shell you should get rotella, otherwise id look for something zinc additive or that has zinc in it for future use.

So guys,
summarizing all the versions you've told me, I'm making conclusion that my current engine is about to die in nearest future? or can this noises at hot start and oil consumption lasts for many thousands miles (5-10k)?
I'm actually thinking about 2 variants to do: - buy one more used engine - buy another vehicle in better shape. Personally thinking about same tahoe but with TBI due to low taxes.

Rebuilding current engine costs here 2500-3000 $$ (parts included). Another gmt400 tahoe/yukon costs 5000-6000$.
Used 5.7 Vortec 1000-1500 $$

OFFTOP:
Suburban gmt400 starts from 7500$... Silverado is really rare here, costs same as burb. The funny thing is that 840 Tahoe in good condition is avalible for same price as gmt400 suburban.
I dont mention Esalade, Hummer and some other stuff, they cost a fortune, especially Hummers H1, H2.

We pay every year here for vehicle, and tax is based on engine power. for 254 horse power on Vortec i pay 700$, for 210 TBI it's just 350$ per year. + we pay for insurance another 200-400$/year... Maybe it's not that much, but average salary in Russia is 700-1000$ per month lol. Owning such vehicles here is difficult if you have usual salary and usual job
also, I would like to say that new Escalade 2017 with 400+ hp has a tax of approx. 1700 $$ per year. insurance is also expensive for Escalade...

 

[TylerZ281500]

daaammnnn price for rebuild is about the same, cost for a junkyard engine isnt though. LS swap it they wont know how much power it has. if your debating a new vehicle, it couldnt hurt to pull the pan and check lower bearing tolerances, if its all good throw a new pump in and button it back up.

 

[Hipster]

I'll probably get flamed. Engines don't always necessarily need rebuilt. I have done several what I call "down and dirty" ring and bearing jobs. Rings, bearings, gasket set , oil pump. Maybe cam bearings if they look shot. If everything is within service spec there is no need to machine everything. Maybe polish the crank if possible, or a re ground, or cut the crank 10/10. Ridge ream and ball hone the cylinders. Hand lap the valves and new stem seals. I've had good service out of engines I've done this way even when the bores and valve guides were at the upper limits of "within service spec" and everybody was screaming it wouldn't work. The engine in my truck has a crank, pistons, and rods from another block shoved in it which according to all should never work. It runs decent, is quiet, loses about 1/3 quart every 3000 mi.(drips some from the oil lines) 6 years and 35,000 mi. it's still going. Machinists sell machine work. You don't always need all of what they are selling you.

Just some food for thought. You have a block that holds compression and water.

 

[DerekTheGreat]

Hell, if my engine only went through a 1/3 of a quart every 3k I'd be happy beyond belief so I'd call that a job well done.

 

[superdave]

I mis-read the knock issue that it was doing it cold, not hot. A couple of seconds of noise at cold crank is common with these engines. Not so sure on the hot issue.

You need to do a compression test on each cylinder before you do anything else. It will tell a lot about the condition of the motor. If the compression is good, the oil consumption may be caused by stuck oil rings. A quart of Marvel Mystery oil, the Russian equivalent of that, or a quart of trans fluid in the oil and run for a few hundred miles may help if the rings are stuck. Just make sure to change the oil after that.

 

[AlexHawk94]

daaammnnn price for rebuild is about the same, cost for a junkyard engine isnt though. LS swap it they wont know how much power it has. if your debating a new vehicle, it couldnt hurt to pull the pan and check lower bearing tolerances, if its all good throw a new pump in and button it back up.

I checked another vehicle, it's gmc Yukon with tbi and it's totally dead. So I stay with my truck and probably will replace engine. But I don't know when

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[AlexHawk94]

I mis-read the knock issue that it was doing it cold, not hot. A couple of seconds of noise at cold crank is common with these engines. Not so sure on the hot issue.

You need to do a compression test on each cylinder before you do anything else. It will tell a lot about the condition of the motor. If the compression is good, the oil consumption may be caused by stuck oil rings. A quart of Marvel Mystery oil, the Russian equivalent of that, or a quart of trans fluid in the oil and run for a few hundred miles may help if the rings are stuck. Just make sure to change the oil after that.

Compression test is OK, did it recently

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