O2 Sensor Issues

[stutaeng]

So what was the voltage of the downstream O2 sensor? Does your scanner have a graph? You really have to look at the waveform. I used a DVOM once to try to diagnose O2 sensor and voltage was just jumping around. I could not figure out what I was looking at...

Here a few shots of n upstream and downstream O2 sensor.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Qball]

So what was the voltage of the downstream O2 sensor? Does your scanner have a graph? You really have to look at the waveform. I used a DVOM once to try to diagnose O2 sensor and voltage was just jumping around. I could not figure out what I was looking at...

Here a few shots of n upstream and downstream O2 sensor.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

Yea my scan tool (I.E. mY $10 dollar Bluetooth adapter and torque pro) does graph. As far as waveform goes there is none to speak of it's just a flat 0 I graphed the upstream too just for good measure and it does jump all around. I only used the DOVM to measure the resistance on the heater circuit which came out to 3.7 OHMS

 

[stutaeng]

Both upstream and downstream are "pegged?" What about if you flip the throttle? Anything? I just bought a suburban (another!) 2500 with the 6.0 and it has some O2 code. I briefly checked it and the downstream is pegged. I snap the throttle and it starts acting right, then gets pegged again. I think it's faulty on mine.

What about the other bank? Do those look good?

BTW, aren't you supposed get a tune for your ECU? 5.0 vs 5.7 would obviously require different fuel parameters, no?

 

[stutaeng]

Do you have any other codes? How do your fuel trims look? Especially the one on that side with screwy O2 sensor readings?

 

[Qball]

Both upstream and downstream are "pegged?" What about if you flip the throttle? Anything? I just bought a suburban (another!) 2500 with the 6.0 and it has some O2 code. I briefly checked it and the downstream is pegged. I snap the throttle and it starts acting right, then gets pegged again. I think it's faulty on mine.

What about the other bank? Do those look good?

BTW, aren't you supposed get a tune for your ECU? 5.0 vs 5.7 would obviously require different fuel parameters, no?

Upstream moves around I think on one of my drives I averaged out the voltage and it was .375 but it moves all around. Flipping the throttle does nothing for downstream but will move the upstream. Other bank seems to be working just fine. As for ECU's I looked it up at one point and no apparently you can swap a 5.7 into a 5.0 no issues.

 

[Qball]

Do you have any other codes? How do your fuel trims look? Especially the one on that side with screwy O2 sensor readings?

No other codes just P0137 and I'd have to look at the fuel trims

 

[stutaeng]

For a long time on my 5.7 vortec I had lean code. The SES light on the dash was intermittent and I sometimes also got a 02 sensor code. I mistakenly changed all 4 sensors, but problem came back. It was the spider injector #6 being stuck closed. I was able to conclude by looking at fuel trims at different RPMs. It ran lean with change in RPMs.

But if you don't see
a response on your O2, they they are faulty. You can also spray some carb cleaner in the intake and your should see a response on your graph.

 

[Qball]

I pulled the sensor to look at my wiring and noticed that small dent there is that gonna be an issue?

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Erik the Awful]

Use a pocket screwdriver to gently open it back up. If it works, great. If not, you're not out any more money than if you just replace it now. It's not like replacing an O2 sensor takes lot of time.

That said, I'd probably go ahead and throw a new one in there.

 

[Qball]

Use a pocket screwdriver to gently open it back up. If it works, great. If not, you're not out any more money than if you just replace it now. It's not like replacing an O2 sensor takes lot of time.

That said, I'd probably go ahead and throw a new one in there.

Tried to pry it back out was unable tho I did fix a few loose connections I had with the boch connector if that doesnt work I should be under warranty still

 

[Qball]

Alright, I warrantied out the sensor and wired up the new one same way and still got 0 volts, so I flipped two wires and now I get a voltage reading on it. The issue is now I get p0140 which to me doesn't make any sensor as that's the no activity code which I feel a flat 0 volts would give not the moving voltage I now have. Any ideas? If need be I can share the graphing not sure if it'd be better for me to upload the excel file that I exported to my computer or if I should just upload a screenshot of the actual graph on my phone.