No fuel pump activity

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Donald Mitchell

1990 C1500 5.7L
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It sat about a month while I was working on it with the battery unhooked. I consolidated some grounds on the intake manifold to clean up the clutter. Two bolted to the bolt on the engine hoist bracket, two more on the thermostat housing. Grounded them with the ground cable on the intake. Now I hear no fuel pump prime, no gas to the injectors. I may have knocked something loose as I was all over the engine. Things I checked, there is power to the orange wire on the relay also 12.4v on both sides of the orange wire fuse link to the junction block. I droped a bolt off the back of the intake and knocked around back there with a magnet, so I also made sure the oil pressure sensor was plugged in just in case. Any ideas on what to check next. most fuel pumps seem to die on the road, but i'm sure there are exceptions. Also the pink and black wire comming out of the relay is supposed to have a 20a inline fuse but I don't know where it is.
 

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Donald Mitchell

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I have a new fuel pump relay, and an oil pressure sender I have kept for years just in case, the relay made no difference. The 20a fuse next to the junction block is Ok. Cleaned the pump ground. I hear it prime and shut off now. May have to try jumping the oil sender and see if that works. Checking wiring I noticed (and this may be normal) that the map and tps sensor returns have continuity with ground. It also may be something to do with the injectors.
 

Donald Mitchell

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I think I found the problem. everything led me to think i had a bad ignition module. Or would you think I would be better off with a new distributor?
 

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HotWheelsBurban

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Yup that rotor is toast! What does the cap look like inside? If it's all nasty and corroded looking, I would replace both.
I'm not familiar with what's available for TBI engines, but we always had great service from Blue Streak caps and rotors back in the day. They make a Vortec rotor, but not a cap, so I went with the UMP vented cap( the Chevy engines are prone to getting moisture and humidity in the cap and that is one thing that leads to what you're seeing). It's done well on the Burb, so I'm going to order their cap and rotor set for the crew cab.
That distributor looks sweet, do you actually need to replace it? I wouldn't,if you don't have to.
 

Pinger

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As per HWB's post - replace the HT conducting parts but give the dizzy body a stay of execution. As far as I can make out it's a reluctor set-up as are ABS rings and they can be minging with rust much worse than your dizzy and still work fine.
 

Donald Mitchell

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Thank's for the input ya'll ! The distributor is only about 6 yr old and not that many miles so I'll clean it a little bit. I ordered a new delco cap, rotor and Icm. Thanks, again!
 

Schurkey

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There should be two screens on the aluminum plate that the module is screwed to. Blow 'em out with compressed air. Make sure they can flow air.

Put power to the fuel pump test terminal, see if the pump runs.

Do you have spark when you crank the engine? Do the injectors click when the engine is cranking?
 

Donald Mitchell

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I see the screens and will clean those, no spark , fuel pump runs but no fuel to the injectors. 12v to the injectors. 12v to coil, 12v on both pink and white wire from coil to distributor. 9v battery wil make injector click but no fuel comes out.
 
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