Need some coaching

[Weiant2001]

So I had tore down my steering column to replace my windshield wiper switch. Never doing it before and alot of the youtube university videos aren't specific to what I had going on, it took me about 2 days to tear it down and get it back together.

Regardless, got it back together but my brights switch doesn't work now.

Option 1, tear it back down and figure out how to get it working again. (Don't want to do this)

Option 2. rewire the hi beams to a switch. (Preferred).

So for the preferred method anyone have any insight on the proper way to throw a switch on the hibeams circuit?

I'm a metal fabricator, not an electrician.....so newb explanation is not offensive.

 

[1998_K1500_Sub]

What year's your vehicle?

In the simplest of terms, you need to wire-in a switch that replaces this existing function... basically, a single-pole double-throw switch:

You must be registered for see images attach

This image from the 1998 GMT400 service manual

Referencing the above figure showing the 1998 factory configuration, power (+12) is supplied on the YEL lead and switched to the lows on the TAN lead and the highs on the GRN lead, at least in 1998. Other years are likely similar.

The next question would be: Where can one find these wires in order to cut-n-splice to them, so as to connect them to another switch?

Lemme work on that and edit this post. Most likely they're already on the harness in the steering column which connects to the switch you just replaced.

If you admitted to being more of an electrical guy, I would suggest you simply bypass all the OE stuff and run separate relays and wiring to your headlights, pulling power for the headlights directly from the alternator (or nearby), and controlling the relays using (1) an existing headlight circuit, to provide power for the relays, and (2) the switch you wish to install, for high and low.

 

[Weiant2001]

1994

 

[Weiant2001]

What year's your vehicle?

In the simplest of terms, you need to wire-in a switch that replaces this existing function... basically, a single-pole double-throw switch:

You must be registered for see images attach

This image from the 1998 GMT400 service manual

Power (+12) is supplied on the YEL lead and switched to the lows on the TAN lead, the highs on the GRN lead, at least in 1998. Other years are likely similar.

The next question would be: Where can one find these wires in order to cut-n-splice to them, so as to connect them to another switch?

Lemme work on that and edit this post. Most likely they're already on the harness in the steering column which connects to the switch you just replaced.

I appreciate your time and input....

 

[1998_K1500_Sub]

1994

There's something "different" about 1994... I seem to remember the turn signal / high-low / wipers / etc control was different from that used in 1995 and later. Somebody posted this "fact" IIRC in a thread recently...

OK, so do this. Download the 1994 service manual from this site:

GMT400 CK Service Manual Project

GMT400 CK Manual Project - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

GMT400 CK Manual Project The 1988 - 1998 GMT400 Chevy & GMC Pickups Message Board

67-72chevytrucks.com

Look for a section on "Electrical Diagnosis", then look for a subsection titled "Headlights" (at least, those are the section names in the 1998 manual).

Therein, if the manual's like 1998's, you'll find troubleshooting flowcharts and wiring diagrams for the headlight circuit, among others.

Take a look and report-back if you've found relevant information.

Meanwhile, perhaps someone knowledgeable about the 1994 trucks may reply.

@east302 may be able to help. He's often helpful with electrical problems.

Attached is a diagram for 1998.

 

[someotherguy]

50/50 you might need to go back into the column. The /50 "not" would be, look halfway down the column between dash and firewall and find the high beam switch; sometimes while you're in there messing around, the actuator rod can pop out of it. A simple loosening of the switch on its bracket can allow you to pop the rod back into the center of the switch. This is the design from 1994-older. (The larger switch on the same bracket is your ignition switch, also rod-actuated, so take care to not let the rod pop out of that one.)

You must be registered for see images attach

Richard

 

[1998_K1500_Sub]

50/50 you might need to go back into the column. The /50 "not" would be, look halfway down the column between dash and firewall and find the high beam switch; sometimes while you're in there messing around, the actuator rod can pop out of it. A simple loosening of the switch on its bracket can allow you to pop the rod back into the center of the switch. This is the design from 1994-older. (The larger switch on the same bracket is your ignition switch, also rod-actuated, so take care to not let the rod pop out of that one.)

Nice, Richard. Complete with an actual picture no less

I hope this solves his issue.

 

[someotherguy]

Nice, Richard. Complete with an actual picture no less

I hope this solves his issue.

The 50/ "will" have to go back into the column isn't as deep as he went for the wiper switch, so that's a positive, anyway. The lever pushes against a bent section of that rod and it may have slipped off up top, out of the pivot/switch assembly. IIRC it requires teardown to just past the turn signal canceling cam which isn't too bad. It lives in the same exact area as the wiper switch (since the turn signal/cruise/wipers/high beam lever, aka multifunction lever, shoves through there) but I want to say I've slipped the rod back into place without further teardown, on tilt columns I've tightened up from the tilt joint bolts coming loose.

Richard

 

[alignman88]

X 2 on the switch rod being out of place. I fought the upper U shaped part in the column getting it to stay in place on the rod. Used all the cuss words.

 

[Dropped88]

If the rod is not off on bottom and you don't want to go into the column just convert to the old school floor dimmer switch. It'll have the same 3 wire pinout and won't be tacky like adding a switch on the dash