Need info on shock fitment - Ride quality

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99'Subourbon

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Hey guys,

Long story short, I need new shocks to improve ride comfort. I've already replaced all UCA/LCA bushings with energy suspensions, and completed redid the front suspension with moog parts (Ball joins, sleeves, pitman arm, stabilizer, etc). This greatly improved the handling and firmness/crispness, however, the suburban still feels like you are riding in a M1 Abrams. My wife absolutely loathes the ride, and wants me to get rid of the burb (which I refuse to do). It is my family hauler, so as much as I would like it to be my off-road/expedition vehicle, I have to be realistic.

In my situation, I'm 2" higher from crank and blocks, and running 33's. I will be adding a 3" body lift soon, and putting on 35's.

I was set on ordering Monroe Reflexes or Sensatracs, but when I called them, they said they wouldn't fit due to my increased height, and they don't offer anything else that is longer.

I already have yellow/blue bilsteins, but I am not sure how long they have been on there, or if they are factory. When i redid my suspension, I tested them and they compressed pretty easily by hand (took some effort, but for a shock). I've had bilsteins before, and as much as I like them, they are too stiff for the wife/family.

What are my options? I would really like to go with Monroe's - but according to the rep, that isn't an option. Don't know how accurate that is, she didn't seem all that knowledgeable.

Thanks!
 

98_k1500

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Stock ones will work just fine with the 2" crank and block. You may be surprised how much it helps if you take the torsion bars down just 1 round.
 

99'Subourbon

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That's good to hear; thanks!

Oh and I was wrong, I forgot that I only went with a 1.5" block and cranked to level. So that stretch is even less (I don't know how wheels play into it).

Not that I don't believe you, but if someone else can confirm - before I pull the trigger on my order?
 

wildncrazyguy

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Stock ones will work just fine with the 2" crank and block. You may be surprised how much it helps if you take the torsion bars down just 1 round.

Can you provide more info on how to do this to newbie suspension people like me, and what it does? Looking to get a little educated here. Picked up a 98 Suburban K1500 a few months back and to me it looks like the front is higher than the back. I guess I should measure. Anyway, put new Bilstiens all around and ride is much much better. Still would like to smooth it out a bit. Wondering if I took a wrench and did a complete 360 on both torsion key bolts counterclockwise would that lower the front some? I'm guessing that's what you mean by going down a round? Sorry if I didn't understand and am completely wrong.
 

99'Subourbon

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Can you provide more info on how to do this to newbie suspension people like me, and what it does? Looking to get a little educated here. Picked up a 98 Suburban K1500 a few months back and to me it looks like the front is higher than the back. I guess I should measure. Anyway, put new Bilstiens all around and ride is much much better. Still would like to smooth it out a bit. Wondering if I took a wrench and did a complete 360 on both torsion key bolts counterclockwise would that lower the front some? I'm guessing that's what you mean by going down a round? Sorry if I didn't understand and am completely wrong.

That's correct. The more crank you have on the torsion bars, the stiffer the front is, and the higher it is. By de-cranking it (counter-clockwise turn), you will lower it, and take some stress off the front suspension.

On a different note, bilsteins are great, but not what I would consider for a smoother ride. To me, bilsteins are for control and stability, especially off-road; smoothness/comfort is probably its most lacking quality.
 

wildncrazyguy

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Thanks for the info. Here is a pic I took today since they were both pretty clean. Probably bad angles and I wasn't taking the pic to show that I think the front is higher, but I think you can tell what I'm talking about. It's probably just an optical illusion.

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