Getting misfire cylinder 2 code and correlation with crank and cam code.
Need help reading these numbers / rough idle
- Thread starter Bigred81
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In addition to the one you just replied to
What # codes exactly? Incorrect timing will not set a circuit code like that. Do you understand what you're going after here?
On a vortec you set the timing by holding the rpm steady at 1200 and twisting the distributor until the CMP pid reads 0 degrees +/- 1.
On a vortec you set the timing by holding the rpm steady at 1200 and twisting the distributor until the CMP pid reads 0 degrees +/- 1.
Codes are P0302, P1345, P1351. I was thinking I had missed a tooth when installing new distributor. I saw online many people got the P1345 afterwards because they missed a tooth. I know it get it 1200 RPM to get it close but it’s still pretty far off when I do that. I’m not able to get in and see the cam information. I just wanted to get it closer so it would run a little better until I could take it in to the shop. I can’t afford it right now. The “Service Engine Soon” light was just flashing on the way back from picking up my daughters prescription. So, I guess I really don’t know what I’m doing. I dont know. Here’s the latest numbers.
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I'm not sure you can trust the pcm's misfire counter if it is also setting a code for cam/crank correlation. First step is to figure out exactly which cylinder is misfiring and why. Unplug cylinder 2 spark plug wire while the engine is running and see if there is any change.
The fuel trims indicate it's running way rich on bank 2. What do the fuel trims do if you rev the truck up?
I would expect you have a problem that is local to bank 2. Leaky injector, no ignition, or bad o2 sensor just to name a few suspects.
The fuel trims indicate it's running way rich on bank 2. What do the fuel trims do if you rev the truck up?
I would expect you have a problem that is local to bank 2. Leaky injector, no ignition, or bad o2 sensor just to name a few suspects.
At
At 3,000 rpms. Runs kind of smooth. I can’t tell somethings not right when sitting in it. Sometimes the whole truck shakes. It’s a consistent feeling like it’s specific to one place with rotation. Plug 2 has spark to it. Brand new AC Delco plugs and wires. I upgraded the injectors two years ago to the new ones. I know that could still be it though. Just wished they would last over 15,000 miles.
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Did you do MPFI upgrade or do you still have factory poppet injectors? Have you inspected for fowled spark plugs?
That data gives good insight. You have nearly 9% fuel trim on bank 2 at 3000rpm, which is acceptable. How does it run if you step on the gas with the truck in gear?
That leads me to believe you either have too much fuel, or not enough air, entering ONLY bank 2 ONLY at idle. I think you could possibly have a fueling issue. Do you have the materials to check fuel pressure with a gauge? You should check it with engine running and also observe how long it takes for the pressure to leak down after you shut the engine off.
That data gives good insight. You have nearly 9% fuel trim on bank 2 at 3000rpm, which is acceptable. How does it run if you step on the gas with the truck in gear?
That leads me to believe you either have too much fuel, or not enough air, entering ONLY bank 2 ONLY at idle. I think you could possibly have a fueling issue. Do you have the materials to check fuel pressure with a gauge? You should check it with engine running and also observe how long it takes for the pressure to leak down after you shut the engine off.
Yes MPFI upgrade. I couldn’t remember what it was called. After It ran phenomenal. I had no idea it would help so much. Usually runs awesome. I put new plugs in yesterday. I just checked the plug. It’s at .06 which is what I gapped it at yesterday. I just checked the plug and it has spark. I don’t have any help so I set my phone up on record and turned over the ignition and went back and watched the video. It’s got two arc’s on it. I think the one that shouldn’t be there just grounded out through my gloves. I will go and rent a fuel pressure gauge tomorrow and return it when done.
so this is all on passenger side which is bank two. When I removed the plugs on bank two yesterday they were all worse off than one bank one.
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Ok just to throw some ideas since your alone. What I did when I set my distributor was( of coarse tdc ) rotate the engine to double check my setting. With the rotor in you can slowly see how it rotates and which cylinder it should be sparking. Once it gets back to tdc (piston 1) it should be right smack at the pointer(triangleular part of housing) once you put the cap on it should be damn close to the diode... then you can use a scanner and twist it to tweak it. To let you know my experience on my 383 install I got it as close to perfect with the naked eye and once I hooked up a scanner I was -4degrees off I think... dont know why the sel didnt come on or run like crap. I was surprised. Got it to 0 and I didnt feel a difference (performance wise).. hopefully this helps. Wires, plugs and ignition coils go bad.... so another quick story. I bought ignition module and coil from rock auto. Acdelco... installed it and like a month later got a sel for high voltage or something. Ended up having to install the oem one back in and light hasn't came back on since.... knock on wood. So my point is your coil or module could be causing the sel. Specifically for the high voltage.... now that being said you need to get your engine timed right and make sure the wires arnt arcing or defective.... goodluck
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