My Flat Tappet Cam Wiped Out So I Decided To Go Roller

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Orpedcrow

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Is this one of those “if you don’t look at the cam bearings, they won’t be bad” cam swaps?

The Summit Racing heads will only support ~.520" lift up to ~5,000 RPM. I went with the Comp Cams CL08-430-8 cam and lifter kit, .525/.525", 224/224 @ 0.050" and 986-16 springs (rated up to .540" lift),
Is this the same as using the “LS style” springs in the vortec heads to get more lift than what the heads are capable of?
 

PlayingWithTBI

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ALL the GM TBI distributors had melonized gears. No promises on aftermarket TBI distributors, although it's "likely" that they were melonized also.
I'm using a Spectra premium with ACDelco ICM distributor. Anymore, all of the after market distributors I looked at simply say their gear is steel. I didn't wanna take a chance so I bought the melonized gear for ~108 - ouch!

Is this one of those “if you don’t look at the cam bearings, they won’t be bad” cam swaps?
I thought that was only for LS engines, ha ha. We did look at the cam bearings and they looked OK :lol:
 
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PlayingWithTBI

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PlayingwithTBI Thank you for taking the time and effort to document this! It is appreciated.
No problem, I maintain a spreadsheet showing all my orders by part number from vendor and manufacturer, description, notes, and of course, costs. If this thread helps anyone (it helps me with others' input for sure), I'm glad to do it. ;)
 

L31MaxExpress

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I know this pertains more to break-in, but I think he's right about not building any more flat-tappets.

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...and I'm looking at possibly firing up my flat-tappet rebuild in the next couple days. This puts a little worry back in me.
The only good flat tappet lifters are the GM hardened foot. Some of the cam cores are just garbage now too. Helping a friend, I started to install a flat tappet cam a year ago. Looking at the lifters they had zero curvature when placed bottom to bottom. I put the cam in place and the lifters, when I started adjusting the valvetrain the lifters did not spin at all. Needless to say that cam came out, I started seeing the issues with both cam and lifters and they went back to the vendor. Bought a different brand of cam and GM Delco hardened foot lifters. It broke in fine and has 15K on it now. One other thing that was off on the junk cam was lobe width and positioning. The lobes were narrower than I have ever seen and the lobes were in the dead center of the lifter bores. I even stabbed the distributor just to make sure. Changed to a quality cam and the lobes were both wider and offset in the lifter bore. All of the lifters were spinning even rolling the engine over by hand. The second cam was not a Comp cam, it was a Trickflow if you catch my drift on who the vendor was for cam number 1.

If you have not yet fired that thing, put the hardened foot lifters into it, verify lobe alignment with the lifter bores, make sure they spin when you turn the engine over and it should break in without any problems.
 
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L31MaxExpress

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Ooh, a cast core? You may be re-revisiting this again in the future. @L31MaxExpress I believe ate one or more of those.
I have had 2 different cast core rollers, from different companies and in different engine families entirely start to come apart. Both were run pretty hard and may have experienced valve float. So it may not entirely be the cams fault. That being said if it was valve float that did them in, they are not very tolerant of it.
 

L31MaxExpress

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Here is the problem I have now seen multiple times in the past couple of years. The first cam would not survive break-in. Look at how much wider the lobe is and how offset it sits compared to the lifter bore on cam number 2, the Trickflow. I now look at the lobe position on every lifter bore. One cam only had 2 lobes that were defective. Look at one lobe, think you are good and two go flat.

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