Mad Customs

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0xDEADBEEF

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I’m guessing this is designed for completely slamming a truck instead of a 6 inch drop? It looks great btw!!

It's a as much as you can get and still fit under the bed (I think).

I wanted all the suspension travel I could get. I'm hoping I can really get the truck to squat when it has traction.
 

0xDEADBEEF

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Bed is on and the truck is back together. I didn't take any pics because it looks the same as it did a couple pages ago. I have an appointment to get exhaust put on Friday after next. Probably will get an alignment soon too.

Then it's back to summer farting around duty and we'll hit up a test and tune and see what breaks.
 

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Status update

Drove the truck up to the exhaust shop yesterday for obvious reasons. I felt bad starting the truck up and driving it through town with open headers. Even though I prefer 2 into 1, it was going to be a lot cheaper to run duals that dump in front of the axle. Dual 3" pipes should be able to support a lot of future power. Using a magnaflow x muffler. It sounds great. Very deep. Quiet at start up and part throttle but comes to life when you get on it.

It drives pretty good. Alignment is not too far off. I can see it's got a degree or two of excess negative camber up front. I'm not going to do anything about it until I get the skinnys for it. It would just rub more.

There's also a vibration at higher speeds, more on deceleration. I think it's driveline. Need to get it up in the air with all 4 wheels touching something solid so I can get measurements. Probably just needs a shim on the leafs. I would really like to just do a 4-link, but I was scoping out some drag and drive rules and if the vehicle had leaf springs, it has to keep leaf springs unless you want to move in some kind of unlimited class ($$$,$$$.$$). Flips appear to be legal.
 

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Been thinking about the driveline. The driveshaft is roughly 1/4" too short. It's probably fine, but it does stick out 1/4" more than before. I'm kinda thinking that instead of messing with shims and spending time dialing it in perfectly, that I might just take it to the local driveshaft shop and get a new one made with a double cardan (CV) joint. It does add some weight which robs power, but uneven driveline angle also robs power.

The driveline would be a lot more tolerant of the various chassis dynamics (like when the rear end is really hooked up and the truck squats) and the splines would have full engagement. Plus, I know the old driveshaft has been beat hard a couple of times when the ujoints broke and it hit the pavement, it wouldn't surprise me if it was out of spec now.
 
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