LEDs in 95+ interior switches! How to with pics.

Discussion in 'Audio + Electronics' started by Sampuppy1, Feb 25, 2017.

  1. Sampuppy1

    Sampuppy1 Diesel nut

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    Since I have a bunch of extras that I broke while experimenting with these swaps, I figured I would take some pics detailing how to swap the smaller switches of our interiors to LEDs. I used all 5 chip 194 bulbs and single chip 74 bulbs. All of which I separated from the bulb base and just used the bare chips.

    So without further adieu............

    Things you will need:
    Soldering iron - any one will do but you need a small point tip for delicate stuff. I have a cheap 25 buck wallenk and it did just fine.

    Soldering stand - A bench vise is not suitable for small delicate stuff like this. I made my own from some scrap wood, a few wiring staples, some solid copper wire and two alligator clips. I soldered the alligator clips to the wire, stapled the wire to the board. Drilled some holes for my tips and stapled the kickstand to the board. It's functional. Not the greatest looking but it does the job. [​IMG] it costed me about 5 bucks.

    4x4 switch - soldering is required. Difficulty level - moderate/advanced.
    Auto 4x4 should be similar with two plugs instead of one.

    Disassembly is simple. [​IMG] pop the switch out of the dash. You'll need to take the bezel loose to get to the clips that keep it in the dash. After that there's four tabs that need to be GENTLY pried up to release the tabs. [​IMG]
    Not being gentle results in this[​IMG]
    They aren't horrible but they aren't stout.
    Once split you get this[​IMG] Note I've already removed the two illumination bulbs. They're in white sockets soldered to the board.

    The pins are molded into the housing so they need to be desoldered to remove the board or you can gently pry the board loose which was the method I used. [​IMG]

    Then you desolder and remove the illumination bulbs. I pried them off first and then used pliers to pull the wire while I melted the solder. Much easier this way as you can do one wire at a time as opposed to trying to do two at once. [​IMG]

    Since the LEDs are polarity sensitive they need to be oriented properly. The top left pin (pin 1) is the positive. The one next to it on the right (pin 2) is the negative. So they need to be bench tested to find the positive and negative. If they have built in resistors the resistor will be on the positive lead. [​IMG]

    Bench test it to ensure everything is hunky dory and then resolder the pins. I prefer the prying method because it leaves solder on the pins and you just reheat what's there and it'll reattach the pins[​IMG]

    Then snap the cover back on, plug it in and pop. It back in the dash. I didn't change the indicator LEDs. The chips I have would be overpowering and annoying at night. So I left them alone. They'd be the same process if you have the correct bulbs and wish to change them. [​IMG]

    The cargo light switch I do not have pics for at the moment. I'll have to edit this post for that when I find my spares.

    The headlight switch is in progress right now. I'll start with the breakdown for now. The headlight switch poos out through the back of the dash bezel. There's I believe 3 or four tabs holding it in place. Pop The two outers loose and it'll come right out. Unplug it and this is what you have. [​IMG] next is removing the back cover. There are a number of little tabs retaining the back cover all the way around it. Start on one side and work your way around. These things are shallow and flimsy so it's really easy to pop them loose. [​IMG] this is what you'll see under it. [​IMG] next you slide out the control board. There are no retention devices to my knowledge. Just gently pull up and wiggle it a little there's tiny parts inside there so yanking on it will cause springs and bearings and shit to go everywhere (I learned this lesson the hard way). A long spring that sits in the dome override button will probably come out with this board as it has dielectric grease holding it on a guide pin. Just don't lose it. . I'll have more details after some more testing. Let me know if this format works well for you guys. I'll post the window switches as well as I have a spare I will actually be putting in my truck and I have a power mirror switch I need to swap and install.

    Sent from a flagged XT1254
    Tyler/T-Unit
     
    Last edited: Feb 25, 2017
    Raspi454, dcp1992, Dahead76 and 2 others like this.
  2. shovelbill

    shovelbill I'm Awesome

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    very cool.....right now i'm in the midst (i bought the bulbs) of changing the bulb in my cargo light switch...i hope the bulb i got from Radio Shack is close to correct....my eyes aren't what they used to be so i'll nee a dang entomologist's mag-glass to do it, lol.....nice work ditty you made.

    thanks for sharing.
     
  3. Sampuppy1

    Sampuppy1 Diesel nut

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    I'll have more updates. The cargo light was a pain as well. I planned to do more but for some reason my 5 spare cargo light switches are gone. And they were next on my list. The chips I used required a fair bit of modifications to the switches for them to fit but the results were worth the cutting and burning.

    Sent from a flagged XT1254
    Tyler/T-Unit
     
    shovelbill likes this.
  4. MrBru

    MrBru Newbie

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    Hi, I have a different 4wd switch. I used a little bit different method and instead of desoldering terminals, I have broke lightbulbs (they are usually marked as 7327) and I have replaced them with automotive 12V LEDs with build-in resistors, series LTH3MM12V:

    https://www.digikey.ca/product-deta...cc/LTH3MM12VFR4600/LTH3MM12VFR4600-ND/6691216

    I have soldered these LEDs from the top of PCB.

    (I needed 2x in 4wd, 10x in radio, 1x in window control and 1x in dome switch, total 14 LEDs.)

    4wd_switch_wiring.jpg 4wd_switch_final.jpg

    Update: I have forgot to mention, that once your switch is disassembled it is a good idea to resolder these terminals pin 1x3 on left and 2x4 in the center. I don't know why, but these solders are not very well done from a factory and your gear position LEDs will stop work and occasionally you may end up with "SERVICE 4WD" warning, just because these terminals will have a bad connection.
     
    Last edited: Mar 22, 2019
  5. Cokeman95

    Cokeman95 I'm Awesome

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    Any pictures of it lit up?

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
     
  6. MrBru

    MrBru Newbie

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    IMG_20190325_211439.jpg

    ^ Here is it, I am still missing 4 LEDs in radio.
     
    98chevy2500SS likes this.
  7. Aelfred-cyning

    Aelfred-cyning Newbie

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    I'm looking forward to the pics for the cargo light switch. I have never had any of the 3 or 4 I own actually light up, even with good bulbs and even with LED chips. I guess it's probably my wiring harness. Anybody know which wire controls the cargo light switch Illumination?
     
  8. Cokeman95

    Cokeman95 I'm Awesome

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    Gray wire coming out of the plug.

    Here's one I did for a buddy.

    [​IMG]

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
     
  9. Raspi454

    Raspi454 Newbie

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    anyone got pics of the hvac?
     
  10. Aelfred-cyning

    Aelfred-cyning Newbie

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    That looks noice. Time to check my wires for spark :suicide:
     

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