Since I have a bunch of extras that I broke while experimenting with these swaps, I figured I would take some pics detailing how to swap the smaller switches of our interiors to LEDs. I used all 5 chip 194 bulbs and single chip 74 bulbs. All of which I separated from the bulb base and just used the bare chips.
So without further adieu............
Things you will need:
Soldering iron - any one will do but you need a small point tip for delicate stuff. I have a cheap 25 buck wallenk and it did just fine.
Soldering stand - A bench vise is not suitable for small delicate stuff like this. I made my own from some scrap wood, a few wiring staples, some solid copper wire and two alligator clips. I soldered the alligator clips to the wire, stapled the wire to the board. Drilled some holes for my tips and stapled the kickstand to the board. It's functional. Not the greatest looking but it does the job.
4x4 switch - soldering is required. Difficulty level - moderate/advanced.
Auto 4x4 should be similar with two plugs instead of one.
Disassembly is simple.
Not being gentle results in this
They aren't horrible but they aren't stout.
Once split you get this
The pins are molded into the housing so they need to be desoldered to remove the board or you can gently pry the board loose which was the method I used.
Then you desolder and remove the illumination bulbs. I pried them off first and then used pliers to pull the wire while I melted the solder. Much easier this way as you can do one wire at a time as opposed to trying to do two at once.
Since the LEDs are polarity sensitive they need to be oriented properly. The top left pin (pin 1) is the positive. The one next to it on the right (pin 2) is the negative. So they need to be bench tested to find the positive and negative. If they have built in resistors the resistor will be on the positive lead.
Bench test it to ensure everything is hunky dory and then resolder the pins. I prefer the prying method because it leaves solder on the pins and you just reheat what's there and it'll reattach the pins
Then snap the cover back on, plug it in and pop. It back in the dash. I didn't change the indicator LEDs. The chips I have would be overpowering and annoying at night. So I left them alone. They'd be the same process if you have the correct bulbs and wish to change them.
The cargo light switch I do not have pics for at the moment. I'll have to edit this post for that when I find my spares.
The headlight switch is in progress right now. I'll start with the breakdown for now. The headlight switch poos out through the back of the dash bezel. There's I believe 3 or four tabs holding it in place. Pop The two outers loose and it'll come right out. Unplug it and this is what you have.
Sent from a flagged XT1254
Tyler/T-Unit
So without further adieu............
Things you will need:
Soldering iron - any one will do but you need a small point tip for delicate stuff. I have a cheap 25 buck wallenk and it did just fine.
Soldering stand - A bench vise is not suitable for small delicate stuff like this. I made my own from some scrap wood, a few wiring staples, some solid copper wire and two alligator clips. I soldered the alligator clips to the wire, stapled the wire to the board. Drilled some holes for my tips and stapled the kickstand to the board. It's functional. Not the greatest looking but it does the job.
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it costed me about 5 bucks. 4x4 switch - soldering is required. Difficulty level - moderate/advanced.
Auto 4x4 should be similar with two plugs instead of one.
Disassembly is simple.
You must be registered for see images attach
pop the switch out of the dash. You'll need to take the bezel loose to get to the clips that keep it in the dash. After that there's four tabs that need to be GENTLY pried up to release the tabs.
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Not being gentle results in this
You must be registered for see images attach
They aren't horrible but they aren't stout.
Once split you get this
You must be registered for see images attach
Note I've already removed the two illumination bulbs. They're in white sockets soldered to the board. The pins are molded into the housing so they need to be desoldered to remove the board or you can gently pry the board loose which was the method I used.
You must be registered for see images attach
Then you desolder and remove the illumination bulbs. I pried them off first and then used pliers to pull the wire while I melted the solder. Much easier this way as you can do one wire at a time as opposed to trying to do two at once.
You must be registered for see images attach
Since the LEDs are polarity sensitive they need to be oriented properly. The top left pin (pin 1) is the positive. The one next to it on the right (pin 2) is the negative. So they need to be bench tested to find the positive and negative. If they have built in resistors the resistor will be on the positive lead.
You must be registered for see images attach
Bench test it to ensure everything is hunky dory and then resolder the pins. I prefer the prying method because it leaves solder on the pins and you just reheat what's there and it'll reattach the pins
You must be registered for see images attach
Then snap the cover back on, plug it in and pop. It back in the dash. I didn't change the indicator LEDs. The chips I have would be overpowering and annoying at night. So I left them alone. They'd be the same process if you have the correct bulbs and wish to change them.
You must be registered for see images attach
The cargo light switch I do not have pics for at the moment. I'll have to edit this post for that when I find my spares.
The headlight switch is in progress right now. I'll start with the breakdown for now. The headlight switch poos out through the back of the dash bezel. There's I believe 3 or four tabs holding it in place. Pop The two outers loose and it'll come right out. Unplug it and this is what you have.
You must be registered for see images attach
next is removing the back cover. There are a number of little tabs retaining the back cover all the way around it. Start on one side and work your way around. These things are shallow and flimsy so it's really easy to pop them loose.
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this is what you'll see under it.
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next you slide out the control board. There are no retention devices to my knowledge. Just gently pull up and wiggle it a little there's tiny parts inside there so yanking on it will cause springs and bearings and **** to go everywhere (I learned this lesson the hard way). A long spring that sits in the dome override button will probably come out with this board as it has dielectric grease holding it on a guide pin. Just don't lose it. . I'll have more details after some more testing. Let me know if this format works well for you guys. I'll post the window switches as well as I have a spare I will actually be putting in my truck and I have a power mirror switch I need to swap and install. Sent from a flagged XT1254
Tyler/T-Unit
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