Leaky slip yoke question

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Supercharged111

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I have a 97 C1500 5.0/4L60 truck in my driveway with a leaky yoke. I'm inclined to just get the yoke out by itself, get it squeaky clean, weld the hole shut and send it. Is there a compelling reason not to? And is it possible that it has this crazy contraption inside that I should instead address?

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454cid

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There's an inner seal that's bad. You have a vented slip yoke, and while I'm not 100% on the purpose it was designed that way.

I didnt watch the video as I'm at work.
 

97blackbowtie

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Currently looking some info for the same issue. I found this thread before I seen yours. Good info in there
 

Supercharged111

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I didn't realize this was a thing on these old trucks. Beats dealing with a u-joint.
 

stutaeng

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I've never understood why some of those yokes had that little vent hole, but it seems those got that sleeve then?

When I did the center carrier bearing replacement on my 2 piece driveshaft, that slip yoke had the vent. Years before I would grease the yoke thru the Zerk fitting, but eventually the grease just escaped thru that vent hole, and never reached the splines anymore. When I put everything back together I just welded that vent hole closed. Not sure what effect that has on things, but seems like everything is still working fine.
 
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PlayingWithTBI

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FWIU the hole in the yoke is more for allowing air to escape/return when going over bumps and the yoke slides in/out.

My son and I replaced that sleeve and O-ring on my 88 a couple weeks ago, it only took about an hour and a half to do that, plus change the fluid and filter. Note, we used the old sleeve to pound the new one on the shaft. YMMV

 

Supercharged111

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FWIU the hole in the yoke is more for allowing air to escape/return when going over bumps and the yoke slides in/out.

My son and I replaced that sleeve and O-ring on my 88 a couple weeks ago, it only took about an hour and a half to do that, plus change the fluid and filter. Note, we used the old sleeve to pound the new one on the shaft. YMMV


Any reason you did the sleeve and not just the o-ring?
 

PlayingWithTBI

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Any reason you did the sleeve and not just the o-ring?
Not really, I just ordered both (they come separately) in case I needed it. For the money compared to the labor, I figured it was worth it. And when he pounded on the new sleeve and seal, the old was beat to hell by the time he got it in place.
 

FourEightZero

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K1500 yoke here.

Xfer case is rebuilt with new seals. Slow leak.. and every time I look under there, I see drops of ATF hanging from the end of the yoke where the U-joint caps are embedded. Case and output shaft seal look dry.

Appalachian engineered fix is to clean the outside of the yoke (specifically the cap) and slap some JB Weld on it. Correct?

Edit: Found this YT video last night. Gonna try what this guy did in the 2nd half of the video.

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texas tough

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first make sure your yoke is long enough to engage the oring seal inside of the tailshaft housing.. sometimes driveshshafts get replaced and are not the right length .. inspect your yoke shaft and make sure its not deeply grooved. the yoke seal is easy to replace, just remove the 4 bolts on the tailshaft housing, pull it off and you should see a metal sleeve, with an oring in it,, many times, if the transmission has been rebuilt, the metal sleeve and washer will be missing,, I think people hammer on them to get them off, and destroy them,, they are thin metal. then they just dont bother to find another one. it would be very difficult to weld the vent hole on the yoke with the ujoint in place.. Furthermore,, most GM ujoints are not held in place by C clips, they have hot glue melted into a small hole in the u joint, and you have to destroy the ujoint to get them out,, you have to melt the glue out with a torch,, its quite the shitshow... then you have to try and find the correct u joint to replace it..
 
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