L94 6.2 question

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evonik

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Hi everyone.

I have a 95 sierra with a 4.3 its RWD and I also have a 2012 Yukon Denali with a 6.2 L94 RWD that I’m thinking about swapping into the sierra. Is there anything special about the L94 that might make it more difficult than other 6.2’s? I’ve been googling but everything I found references the L92 or older 6.2 . Just making sure, otherwise, I could part my Yukon out and get a different 6.2.

Any suggestions or recommendations?
 

BeXtreme

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Hi everyone.

I have a 95 sierra with a 4.3 its RWD and I also have a 2012 Yukon Denali with a 6.2 L94 RWD that I’m thinking about swapping into the sierra. Is there anything special about the L94 that might make it more difficult than other 6.2’s? I’ve been googling but everything I found references the L92 or older 6.2 . Just making sure, otherwise, I could part my Yukon out and get a different 6.2.

Any suggestions or recommendations?
L92, L9H, and L94 are basically all the same engine.

L92 is first and has VVT, no Flex fuel, and no AFM.
L9H is same as L92 but add Flex fuel injectors.
L94 is same as L9H but add AFM.

I would recommend you pull down the L94 enough to inspect and clean everything. Put a stage 1 cam in it if you are planning on using it for truck/towing stuff and a stage 2 or 3 if you just want to have fun. Delete AFM by physically blocking the oil passages with bearings and changing the lifters. Stage 1 cam and AFM delete will get you close to 500hp/500tq.

Stage 2 or higher cam will lower torque and add HP while shifting your power band up in RPM.

I got an L9H locally for $1500 and had everything cleaned and gone through. Honed the cylinder walls and new rings. TSP L92 VVT Stage 1 cam kit with the PAC springs, seals, and retainers. Everything else is still stock. Going into my 2011 Suburban to replace the tired 5.3L that has 240k miles on it.
 

evonik

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L92, L9H, and L94 are basically all the same engine.

L92 is first and has VVT, no Flex fuel, and no AFM.
L9H is same as L92 but add Flex fuel injectors.
L94 is same as L9H but add AFM.

I would recommend you pull down the L94 enough to inspect and clean everything. Put a stage 1 cam in it if you are planning on using it for truck/towing stuff and a stage 2 or 3 if you just want to have fun. Delete AFM by physically blocking the oil passages with bearings and changing the lifters. Stage 1 cam and AFM delete will get you close to 500hp/500tq.

Stage 2 or higher cam will lower torque and add HP while shifting your power band up in RPM.

I got an L9H locally for $1500 and had everything cleaned and gone through. Honed the cylinder walls and new rings. TSP L92 VVT Stage 1 cam kit with the PAC springs, seals, and retainers. Everything else is still stock. Going into my 2011 Suburban to replace the tired 5.3L that has 240k miles on it.
Thanks for the quick response. I was reading many delete both VVT and AFM . Doing so I might as well add a cam as you mentioned it.

I’ll look more into that as well!
 

BeXtreme

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Thanks for the quick response. I was reading many delete both VVT and AFM . Doing so I might as well add a cam as you mentioned it.

I’ll look more into that as well!
Deleting the VVT opens up more options for Cams and simplifies tuning. You will lose some low end torque and some highway efficiency, which is why I chose to do the L92 VVT-1 cam. We use this Suburban primarily for family road trips and towing a travel trailer, so I wanted to maximize that. If it's going to be in a light weight single cab and you don't plan on towing I'd delete both AFM/VVT and go with a Stage 2 or 3 cam with .600 lift and make it a ripper. An L92 Stage 2 truck cam from TSP makes good power and sounds pretty good to boot. You'll need a bit looser stall for that one, but not much.

Holdener did some cam comparisons:
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Chevelle with L92 and TSP stage 2 cam:
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