Jakes 4l80e manual control box?

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yevgenievich

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Not because of expense - was more looking for a manual trans with no pedal.
I have seen a controller with a manual mode to use paddle shifters or similar mentioned before. It is not going to be snapping fast, but manual gear selection.
For basic manual only shifter, just need tps signal to vary the pressure and few switches to control shift solenoids. A simple microcontroller with minimal programming can handle that. Probably few more data points would be useful as well to make sure proper pressure for the load
 

Pinger

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Not because of expense - was more looking for a manual trans with no pedal.
Have you considered a manual gearbox with the clutch operated by a switch on the shift lever for up and down shifts once on the move?
The NSU Ro80 employed such a system (ignore the TC, it was there to smooth the surging Wankel idling) and in the 1960s there was a system offered as an option on some European cars (eg, Saab) called Saxomat (by Sachs I think). IIRC Saxomatic used a vacuum servo (brake booster) to do the work but with electric hyd pumps (eg, ABS) available now that would be another option.

My smart had an automated sequential gearbox. A manual gearbox with the shift fingers moved by a rotating drum (as per motorcycle) by electric motor and the clutch operated by an electric actuator all of it under electronic control but shifts being prompted by pushing the shift lever forward or back. A very efficient system and though the electronic programming played a huge part in its effectiveness, controlling a clutch (once on the move) mechanically via a switch wouldn't be impossible. Unless you really want shot of the clutch pedal completely that is.
 

stutaeng

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Why not just go with a manual valve body. I think they start around $700-$800.

I don't know anything about them, but I'm pretty sure it's as easy as unbolting the OEM valve body and bolting the new one in. They are typically installed on a built unit, but in your case, just for the functionality.
 

letitsnow

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Why not just go with a manual valve body. I think they start around $700-$800.

I don't know anything about them, but I'm pretty sure it's as easy as unbolting the OEM valve body and bolting the new one in. They are typically installed on a built unit, but in your case, just for the functionality.

That is originally what I asked Jakes to build me, and they steered me to their box...
 

letitsnow

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Just in case - has anybody here actually used one of these yet?
 
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