In need of some help with a lifted 2dr driveshaft...

[BoominSVX]

I picked up a new toy a few months ago, and as the weather warms, it's time to get under and start sorting things out. Right now, she's stock rear springs sitting on 5" blocks with a zero rate AAL stuck in there. The drive shaft angle is HORRIBLE as it's actually pulling right out of the tailshaft worse than bowtiefreak's did. I figure the best way to go about this would be to go with an ORD shackle flip, 1" zero rate shims, and a 14 bolt SF. I'd also like to drop the T-case an inch or so, and correct the angle with shims. The rearend is already under one of my other trucks so that'll be fine. Both are 3.73 which will work for now. I don't recall if the 14 bolt yoke is any closer to the T-case, but that would help.

That being said, what are you guys with 2dr Tahoes, Yukons and Blazers running with a 6" lift? I have a big list of stuff to fix, so I'd rather stay away from double cardan drive shafts and the like. Quick and easy without trial and error are all I'm looking for. Something that works and won't break the bank. Did anyone find an axle that would be a few inches longer without having one made? What degree shims would I be looking for? I know someone out there has had this issue and found the path to success.

Bowtiefreak, if you read this, did you do a shackle flip on your rig?

 

[BIGBLAZER]

On my 93 blazer i put the trans crossmember under the frame instead of on top in the frame rails like from the factory, i put new grade 8 bolts in with a few grade 8 washers so i could get it good and tight and not bend the crossmember and also i had to put a 3/16" shim under the tranny mount to lift the trans back up slightly otherwise the u-joint would rub on the the frame crossmember that sits right under the u-joint but would only rub in reverse when you but up quickly .. by doin this it put my pinion and output shafts and almost identical angles and helped to slip the slip yoke back into the tailshaft housing a bit more! mine is also a 5speed dunno what kind of length difference there is there assuming you pry have an auto. Its pry not the best fix but it works for me and was a cheap easy fix to my problem which was my ujoints where at way different angles and if i shimmed the rear end down it would of only pulled the drive shaft further out of the tcase so i would of needed a longer driveshaft. and i have 4 inch blocks with an aal. ive had mine this way since 08 and not had an issue yet.

 

[BoominSVX]

On my 93 blazer i put the trans crossmember under the frame instead of on top in the frame rails like from the factory, i put new grade 8 bolts in with a few grade 8 washers so i could get it good and tight and not bend the crossmember and also i had to put a 3/16" shim under the tranny mount to lift the trans back up slightly otherwise the u-joint would rub on the the frame crossmember that sits right under the u-joint but would only rub in reverse when you but up quickly .. by doin this it put my pinion and output shafts and almost identical angles and helped to slip the slip yoke back into the tailshaft housing a bit more! mine is also a 5speed dunno what kind of length difference there is there assuming you pry have an auto. Its pry not the best fix but it works for me and was a cheap easy fix to my problem which was my ujoints where at way different angles and if i shimmed the rear end down it would of only pulled the drive shaft further out of the tcase so i would of needed a longer driveshaft. and i have 4 inch blocks with an aal. ive had mine this way since 08 and not had an issue yet.

Sounds like a good place to start. I guess I could also to a little grinding and take about 3/16" off the top of the crossmember so that I don't need a shim on the tranny mount. Excellent advise and glad to know what to look for. Knowing me, I would have put it all together, rolled 3 inches and stopped when the U-joint hit the other crossmember. I took a look after reading this and I see how that would help. The fact that I have almost no angle to the rear of my driveshaft, and a HUGE one on the front means this would most definitely be a key to success. Mixed with the addition of a shim on the axle, that brandy new U-joint in the back might actually get some life. I know it was toasting them like crazy before I bought it because the front is worn as heck and still shiney. The rear is new. Thanks BIGBLAZER, I'll keep all of this in mind when I crawl my ass under the truck this weekend. Anyone with an auto have any other good advice for the truck affectionately named "Zipped High"? Yea, it's covered in zip ties. She named herself. I have a lot of work to do.