IFS Rebuild: What parts do I need?

[77Concours]

I think you should be fine without replacing that doesnt sound like it was bent since the idler and pit man arm came off

Alrighty, sounds like I need to save up some cash to get this repaired and all cleaned up

 

[77Concours]

Ok need some more input here

I got my ball joints and a new center link in my shopping cart currently on RockAuto. Should I also get new tie rod adjusting sleeves? What about a steering damper? Moog has two on RockAuto one being part number SSD82 and the other with the part number SSD94 and is about $14 more.

Any other parts I might be forgetting?

 

[bluex]

Did you figure out which lower ball joints you needed?

If your replacing both inner an outer tie rods I'd get new adjusters, they are cheap enough that's its not worth the frustration of trying to save them imo

 

[77Concours]

Did you figure out which lower ball joints you needed?

If your replacing both inner an outer tie rods I'd get new adjusters, they are cheap enough that's its not worth the frustration of trying to save them imo

Looked at them today and found that they're press fit so I added some of them to my shopping cart. What's your opinion on a steering damper? I feel if I'm having the front end torn apart it wouldn't hurt to gain some extra control since I have 35's.

 

[bluex]

You got lucky then, everyone says the riveted lowers are a huge pia!

The damper are suppose to help the life of the steering components with oversized tires so I would get one since you have 35's...

 

[magimerlin]

Inside of both tires are bad... Ok two things will cause that a s far as alignment goes. Your tires are toed way out. If you look at your tires from the front of the truck. Stand back and look at them as a pair. Make sure your wheels are straight first. How do they look. Does the front look like its sticking out further then the rear of the tire? If so you are still to far toed out. Under load this will force the tires out further and chew the crap outta the inside of your tires. Normal toe in is usually no more then an 1/8 of an inch on almost all the vehicles I have worked on or owned. Usually this can be corrected by the steering components. In ifs the control arm adjustment via shims have a bit to do with it to.


Second could be your camber. That is how far in or out the top of the tire is compared to the bottom of the tire. If the top is to far in it will wear just the inside of the tire. That can be adjusted by the shims in the upper control arm. As well as in extreme cases an adjustable ball joint can be used as well.


Sent from what use to be a great country.

 

[magimerlin]

Blahhhh NTB..... Sorry never really liked them. If there is a 4x4 shop near by I would go talk to them. Because of some different suspension and steering designs on some rigs they have to actually know how to do an alignment instead of just doing what the screen tells them to do. Unlike "most" NTB alignment guys/gals.

Explain your situation and what you have done and they can usually take it from there.

If you got your tires from NTB and got the road hazard also since they can not seem to fix your issue I would get them to replace your tires. Alignment shod have fixed you up if they knew what they where doing.....

Just my thoughts though.


Sent from what use to be a great country.

 

[magimerlin]

A steering damper may help mask the issue. All a stabilizer does is reduce the shock that is transmitted through to the steering wheel. A properly set up steering and suspension will operate correctly with out one.

And year know this as fact. My first passion is wheeling. Four wheeling that is in my jeep that I built and created to where she is today. Ran for years with no stabilizer on the street and wheeling. Shoot still run no sway bars front or rear too... Just adding a stabilizer recently as the rocks are getting bigger and so are the drops... lol. And putting in hydro steer isn't in the check book yet.... lol.


Sent from what use to be a great country.