I know nothing, so how does this look?

[98nightmare]

The DJM arms lower the spring itself to get the drop while keeping the arm in a normal angle to the spindle. I honestly don't know how a raised ball joint plays into effect on the factory geometry, but would assume the angle of the upper arm is now a few inches higher than the lower.. which should in theory leave a camber during full articulation. When upper arm it straight out spindle should be straight up and down, as upper swings upwards it can only pull the spindle inwards. Which is what's going on already since upper arm is lifted via spindle being lifted by the raised ball joint.
Just going by visual of these trucks, when center of spindle/ wheels center cap is bellow the lower body line it has minimal to zero camber. These trucks start showing camber as the center of wheel starts coming into the lower body line area and becomes a more drastic camber as it reaches the top or passes through the body line. It's weird, but you can look at tons of pics of these trucks and notice it..lol

 

[bygddy]

You know, that makes sense and makes mine even screwier, if the ball joint is raised, and mine looks to be approaching 4" in height, then the spindle and therefore the upper must be in a raised position, this should lead to positive camber more then anything if I'm thinking this through correctly, as the arm articulates up words it should be pushing the top of the tire out, yet I have as much negative up front as those funny little ricers like to run out back with stretched tires. Its actually nuts, so that begs the question, how?

 

[bygddy]

Ahhh, so rereading your post, the assumption is that the upper arm is already past a parralel point and is now pulling the top of the spindle in? During its travel down words, it would come to a point where its level and pushing the spindle and therefore the top of the tire out words, and as it comes down past that point it would begin to pull the spindle back in again. So my question is, how much do the upper arms move in full travel, and are they designed to articulate upwords, or downwords? I understand the answer is both, but they should have significantly more travel built into them in one direction or another I would assume.

 

[bygddy]

The reasons for this are a few btw, first, I like understanding how something works. Second, I'm cheap as fk, and all my junk has been built on leftovers, scrap parts, or just plain ingenuity, and not a bank account. I DO want it to be safe, it may not be a DD, but I do drive my junk a lot, and hard.... so it needs to hold up to my ham ****** stupidity.
Having seen how the DJM arms work now, thanks to bill, I don't want the spring pockets sitting an 1" off the ground, I like that under my truck, its cross member as the lowest point, and the arms come up from there.
And did I mention I'm cheap as fk?
I build motors, and have several SBC running around running solid numbers on my own home ported factory casting heads just because they were free, or pennies, and they work if youknow how to make a little magic with a die grinder and some patients lol.

 

[98nightmare]

If your set on running it like it is, being that low you'll probably not get out of camber without chewing up fenders.. I say screw it, you'll eat tires but that's the side effect of being so low. You'd have to shorten the arms to narrow the front end to ride uncambered and not hit fenders. But I'd for sure change the arms out when/ if you decide to bag it.

 

[98nightmare]

On the articulation, I say more down. Once they go so far up they lock the upper ball joint. Moog K1500 upper joints are notched in socket to allow the joint to go past regular joints ability.

 

[bygddy]

If your set on running it like it is, being that low you'll probably not get out of camber without chewing up fenders.. I say screw it, you'll eat tires but that's the side effect of being so low. You'd have to shorten the arms to narrow the front end to ride uncambered and not hit fenders. But I'd for sure change the arms out when/ if you decide to bag it.

Lol, I promise I'm not "that guy" the one that asks for help, then discounts obviously good info because I think I know better. I'm on a few forums, a couple for a long time and those guys hurt my head.
I was just looking for the how and why's.... i suspect that once we try and set the alignment up and discover its just not doable I will wind up buying arms, I know they do have the 4" lowers, so at a cheap alternative I could just leave the springs it has in it and with 4" lowers my ride height wouldn't change.

 

[98nightmare]

Not trying to sound harsh at all..lol. I'm just saying if you can't afford to change it right now and your fine with the way it is, then do it. Previous owner was a welder and if it's good to drive, why not drive it..lol. Were just saying camber and geometry is off because of it. You can try adjusting it and seeing if that helps. But it's all in what you want to do. Trust me, you don't seem to be coming off as "That guy". You asked concerns, we try to help. I'm bad about trying to help, but don't ever want to come off as a know it all. I'm not a guru by far.. I can speak on my experiences and knowledge of others experiences shared. But I believe in the to each his own theory. You do what works for you in your situations. If I were in your spot it roll it like it is. I'd do what I could when I could to make it how I want it. That's why I recommend reading up on others builds, it gives you more variety on different approaches to what all ends up being pretty much same goal.

 

[98nightmare]

I do really wish others would chime in..lol
I've done babbled three pages already. I gotta stop commenting on stuff..lol

 

[98nightmare]

I'm bored and nobody is doing anything cause it's cold