I know nothing, so how does this look?

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bygddy

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So bought this this summer, $1300, drove it some, actually drives decent considering the alignment hasn't been done and is out to lunch. I know jack about air ride, and I do mean nothing..... I know it drives well, has no management yet, and I'm likley going to leaveit as is unless someone tells me its dangerous or fundamentally wrong. Give me some input or advice?
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I think it's alright, you can go through some of the builds on here and learn a lot. Save up and get a piece at a time for the air management. Then when your comfortable in doing it, go for it..lol. The rear seems to be the part that makes most people not comfortable in bagging something cause the cutting the frame and all.. but that's already been done. Not a bad deal on the truck either! Good score!
 

bygddy

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Thanks man, appreciate it. Its the cups, the relocating shocks, which bags and why, which tank, which valves, is "valves" even right and so much else lol..... I'm going to keep digging around and learning as much as I can, I have a local shop that I have a passing aquaintance with that does air set ups, I just haven't had a chance to get over their and talk. Once I pull the front wheels and see how the lowers are fabricated, and if anything is loose, or going to get me killed, and I decide its safe, then I will likely run it static for the season. As long as the rear is set up decent and looks good then I'm OK with it. I want all the athestics worked out, and the mental picture I have for it completed lol. Thanks for taking a look at the pics, that's what I was hoping to hear.
 

bygddy

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So teach me about front... this is what I currently have, problems I can see, the swap bar is virtually resting on the tie rod tube, looks like a longer link would correct that.
It also looks as tho the tie rod is against the frame, however there is app a 1/4 inch of space, it does look as tho its made very light contact at points. Not sure how much movement it has when the suspension goes through its motion. Ihavent driven the truck much, as I mentioned the alignment hasn't been done yet and camber as well as toe are bananans out. The previous owner however was driving it daily as his only vehicle app 75miles a day with no failures. There are no crashing, banging or other odd noises as it goes down the road, it is very stiff up front given the heavily cut coils, but its not unreasonable. Sooo.... some more input to my new pics?
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bygddy

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OK, so not being that stupid, I clearly need to notch the frame for tie rod clearance, given the stock bottomed out shocks, cut coils and ultra stiff front end its likely that the only real "suspension" I have is my 70 series tires lol. So a shorter shock, and a frame notch seems to be in order to get some safety in the front end. Any links to notching the front would be appreciated....
 

lester622

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Looks like they heated the coil springs to lower it, and idk about that lower control arm the way the ball joint has been cut and moved up.

I would start over under the front. I wouldn't want to drive it the way the front is now.
 

Sierra

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Those lower control arms look suspicious. I dought you will find a reputable alignment shop to touch that. I would redo the front suspension as well.

Start with lower control arms and springs.

Does it have drop spindles?
 
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Yeah I agree, that lower arm looks like something someone with a minitruck would do..lol. Tie rod notch is usually just getting some 1/4 wall three inch pipe/ tube..
useing it sectioned for the tie rod notch.. it's easier to find as Schedule40 pipe.. (probably spelled wrong)
Valves, pretty much up to you.. Accuair if wallet is deep enough, you can get valves from Grainger, Suicidedoors, AVS, and a ton of other places.. As for cups, the easiest to install are the KP Components 88-98 C1500 front cups kit. They have a bolt for the top cup that bolts thru the shocks old hole. Bags are a preference, RE 7s have stood the test of time with many. And also the bags from Air Ride, think they are Dominators?? Someone will chime in I hope..lol. Don't buy any Airbaggit.com crap, it's cheap because it's exactly that. Junk.. I'm running SS7 bags for the extra lift they give, but they only last for 2-3 years, so you probably don't wanna get them..lol
Installing front bags the main complications are bag clearance and lower control arm clearances.. spring pocket has to be cut out bigger for the bag to fit in and not scrub, weld any gaps up afterwards (you'll know where when you see while doing it) also there's tons of pics in build threads here.. a lot are drilling a hole on one side of the upper cup for the air line to go thru, older rides run them out the top the cup. Shock relocation is a give in and seen in builds here also and you can buy a shock relocator kit, so that helps some with that part..
fittings, you don't want plastic.. They break easy.. you'll wanna get some sort of metal, Push connects are popular and make working on later a lot easier.. Brass compression fittings can be purchased at most hardware stores.. They are a little harder to keep air leaks in check..lol but tried and true.
Tanks like everything else is your preference.. Aluminum, powdercoated, chromed, whatever.. metal tanks can be used in weird setups if your wanting to weld a tank weird in some tubing or something.. but metal tanks rust inside.. lol. Air management, a York if you can, there's a thread dedicated to York's (EDC = engine driven compressor) the other options are electric compressor(s)
Viairs are descent.. but loud and take forever to fill tank(s).. Tank size or amounts is also preference, a five gallon won't fill the bags without having the compressor helping, Eight gallons will depending on your set air pressure, ten gallons can fill all bags one and a half times to two times depending again on your set air pressure..
Air pressure desired is done with a Pressure Control Switch, they aren't expensive at all.. Most tanks and compressor(s) are rated to 150 psi so a 150(off) switch is recommended.. some run higher but that shortens the life of an electric compressor.. They have different pressure options like 95 on and 150 off... Usually listed like 95/150... Just means when tank pressure drops down to 95 psi the compressor will be turned on till tank hits 150 psi then compressor will be turned off..
..........damn. there's a lot,lol... switch box AVS kinda has the market on those. Best switch boxes out there and most people use them. Easy to wire up to your valves.
Air line, size is yet again a preference.. 1/2" will damn near hop and you have to gently tap the switches to drop cause you hold that down switch for even a millisecond to long and your ride is slamming down hard. 3/8" is smoother and easier to control.. 1/4" is very easy to control and super smooth but slow. 1/4" will operate close to having a Accuair valve setup..

Idunno what all I'm skipping over, just a jist of usual bag stuff... Reading builds will be your greatest asset on learning
 

bygddy

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That's an absolute ton of info Bill lol, I really appreciate you taking the time to give me some insight, I will reread that a few times and start digging around for some other builds.
Now, onto the control arms..
The lad that built them is a welder, and a very good one at that, so although not a "conventional" lower arm, is there something fundamentally wrong with them assuming the welds are strong and safe? The ball joint angle looks good, the springs are from another GM product and have been cut, not heated. So if the frame was appropriately notched for clearance, is there something I'm missing?
Not arguing or debating, clearly what I know about these trucks would fit in a thimble lol, I can replace all the front end components, that's a non issue as well, I just like to know why I'm spending money before I do it lol.
 
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If it's welded good, then it's good. It's just normally when a ball join is done like it has a spacer, it's usually poorly done.. I'd check under and see if it's plated across all the welded wedges.. Tho it'll probably never have any issues, it's better safe than sorry. You definitely don't want that piece of the arm snapping off and causing a horrible accident. Just by observing the pic it looks as if he did it to get the same effect drop spindles would have done.
 
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