How do you know if your truck originally had keyless entry?

[jtlichty]

Had a quick look at my 98's wiring diagrams.

If you're a similar year, you're boned. Factory RKE won't work without changing out the whole door lock circuit harness, which is intergrated into the dash wiring harness IIRC.

Factory RKE sucks anyways.

Aftermarket is the more sensible option in both cost and hassle.

You're lucky to get 5-10 feet on a good day from factory RKE. Aftermarket is at least a couple hundred feet for even the dinkiest/cheapest of units. It's one of the reasons I went aftermarket.

My aftermarket one is supposed to work a mile away, but I've only tried it from up the street. I'm just happy that I can lock the truck from inside the house now.

Nice bonus is the remote start function. Great to give a diesel a few minute run the glow cycle, start and settle out while you're walking across the parking lot.

I didn't install all the alarm functions, only the dome light trigger. I left out the shock sensor since that's the troublesome part that sets it off in the middle of the night and whatnot. It only triggers if someone opens the door, like a factory alarm.

Total cost?

50 bucks and a couple days lazy work in the garage over xmas holidays.

Hes right my factory keyless sucks

Bummer. Or maybe not i guess haha. So how cheap can I go without sacrificing quality? Any recommendations for good ones? Easy to set up?

 

[great white]

Bummer. Or maybe not i guess haha. So how cheap can I go without sacrificing quality? Any recommendations for good ones? Easy to set up?

Install yourself or have it done for you?

Self install is not for amateurs. Not hard, but still not for amateurs.

500-600 bucks should get you out with a decent alarm or decent remote start installed. Maybe a hundy or so less if you shop around.

 

[jtlichty]

Install yourself or have it done for you?

I'd install it myself. I've done quite a bit of wiring in vehicles and my dad is an electrician so if I can't figure it out he could probably help.

 

[great white]

I'd install it myself. I've done quite a bit of wiring in vehicles and my dad is an electrician so if I can't figure it out he could probably help.

I'll say 200-300 for a decent unit.

I snatched mine off ebay in a stock clear out. That's how I got away for 50 bucks. It's a popular model overseas, but nearly unknown or "not liked" in NA.

DEI is the big kid on the block in NA....by that I mean they own most of the other popular brand names.

 

[jtlichty]

I'll say 200-300 for a decent unit.

I snatched mine off ebay in a stock clear out. That's how I got away for 50 bucks. It's a popular model overseas, but nearly unknown or "not liked" in NA.

DEI is the big kid on the block in NA....by that I mean they own most of the other popular brand names.

Yikes! Spendy! Guess I'll have to add it to the "future mods list" and save up. So going cheaper on ebay probably isn't a good idea?

 

[great white]

Yikes! Spendy! Guess I'll have to add it to the "future mods list" and save up. So going cheaper on ebay probably isn't a good idea?

Like everything on ebay, it's a crap shoot.

You can buy a good brand name but it could be a returned unit. Or it could be reconditioned, which may or may not be OK.

Or you could get lucky and find a good brand a couple years out of date and just overstock or clearout.

Total crap shoot.

If that doesn't bother you, maybe give it a shot.

I went ebay since I knew what I was getting and what to do about it if things went wrong (IE: remove it). For 50 bucks, there wasn't a lot to loose. I've usually found that 90% of the time when guys have problems with aftermarket stuff it's the installation that's the problem.

But there's still that other 10%.....

 

[jtlichty]

Like everything on ebay, it's a crap shoot.

You can buy a good brand name but it could be a returned unit. Or it could be reconditioned, which may or may not be OK.

Or you could get lucky and find a good brand a couple years out of date and just overstock.

Total crap shoot.....

Haha. Good point. Stupid question I guess. Thanks for the help!

 

[BigandTall]

Meant for a '99 Burb but yours should be similar.

ALLDATAdiy says...........


If they key is in the ON position during the programming procedure, the horn chirp will be disabled, it the key is in the OFF position, the horn chirp will be enabled. The horn will chirp when the lock button is pressed two times.

When reprogramming the remote control door lock receiver, All transmitters must be programmed at this time in order for the transmitters to operate the vehicle. Transmitters not programed at this time will not work and the procedure will have to be redone with all the transmitters.

Ground pin 4 to pin 8 of the data link connector (DLC). The receiver will respond by locking and unlocking the doors, and activating the liftgate window release (it equipped) within 2 seconds .
Press and hold the LOCK and UNLOCK buttons simultaneously on the first transmitter to be programmed until the locks cycle (approximately 10 seconds ).
Repeat step 2 for up to four total transmitters to be programmed (it available). The receiver will respond by locking and unlocking the doors and activating the liftgate window release (if equipped) within 2 seconds .
Remove the ground applied to the DLC.
Lock and unlock the doors in order to verity the transmitter operation.
Activate the rear window release in order to verify the transmitter operation.


Worth a try.

I did that exact procedure when I programmed my remote with the key out and my horn doesn't chirp when I set the alarm. Maybe the 95s don't have that option. I'm considering chasing down the wire that sends the lock signal from the receiver and splicing in a diode to act as a check valve for the current and splicing that into the horn wire. Its simple in theory, complicated in explanation and execution.

 

[smashdn]

Old dead thread but let's breath some life into it.

I did a quick search on the amazons, and there are few three button only (lock, unlock, panic) fobs available. The one I did find that was GM was for a traverse or saturn something or other. IF my suburban was original with wireless locks (I haven't confirmed but bet it was due to all power everything LT package) do you suspect those other GM fobs can be programmed using the steps spoken of in the thread (grounding the pin or going from pin to pin within the ODB plug)?

ETA - 1998 K1500

 

[Urban Cowboy]

96-98 Instructions for OBDII type https://www.programyourremote.com/c...ob-programming-instructions-listing-5518.aspx