High volume oil pump 98 K1500 5.7

[L31MaxExpress]

This is what I have run in several engines here in Texas. My van maintains 10-15 psi higher oil pressure at hot idle with the OEM oil cooler in place. When I ran without the cooler the idle oil pressure dropped signifigantly.

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[Road Trip]

15 is going to be pretty thick below operating temps. Even a 0W is going to be thicker than necessary below operating temps. No need to go crazy on that first number. I run 0W40 Mobil1 year 'round in both trucks. It's also worth noting that certain oils run heavier/lighter than others. True viscosity is measured in centistokes. All that info is a Google search away.

These are valid points. The OP comes across as pretty savvy & has already
gone part way down the path of upping the viscosity to solve a specific problem. But
the one thing we could add to the heavier-vis work-around recommended above would
be to drive the engine gently until the engine is fully up to operating temperature?

My thought process is also taking into account that an engine with worn bearings will
have extra wear elsewhere, so a heavier viscosity is not as much of a 'negative' as it
would be in a fresh build on a stand where I've personally verified all clearances
are 'as new'.

This is what I have run in several engines here in Texas. My van maintains 10-15 psi higher oil pressure at hot idle with the OEM oil cooler in place. When I ran without the cooler the idle oil pressure dropped signifigantly.

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Exactly. If I allow myself to refresh/optimize my L29, I will be heading in this direction.

Once I have ensured ideal clearances on the engine side of the oil filter, I will (continue to)
run the OEM oil cooler, tastefully add the mechanical oil pressure gauge for a cross-check
for the instrument cluster gauge / no-kidding monitoring ability, and then run the 0W-40
or 0W-50 oil. (Oil technology *has* changed since the '99 FSM was printed, so why not
take advantage of it?)

And if I get what I really want (near instant oil pressure on a cold start + continued 100% quiet
valvetrain) then I will be all set. Like the OP, no doubt that with a fresh motor & @L31MaxExpress 's
approach my big block truck will outlast the owner. :0)

****

Then again, under the 'if some is good...' mindset, I've always wanted to scratch the itch where
my powerplant is never started without already having full engine oil pressure protecting my
precious bits. Behold the Accusump engine oil accumulator: (LINK) Imagine during the previous
engine shutdown you charge the accumulator with a quart or so of 50+ psi oil, which is then
trapped when you turn off the engine.

During a subsequent engine restart, you first release the contents of the accumulator on the
engine side of the oil filter's anti-drainback valve, you see the oil pressure come up on your
mechanical oil pressure gauge, and then you start the engine when all is right in lubrication world.

EDIT: Maybe add a little flair to the engine start process by adding this guard to the
'Manual Override' switch controlling the operation of the Accusump +12V solenoid mentioned
by @L31MaxExpress below? I'd mount it next to the mechanical oil pressure gauge, and install
both where the OEM radio used to be? (See attached.)

Overkill? Quite possibly. But in Road Trip's perfect world he would never have to worry about
too thick an engine oil delaying the critical lubrication to the rotating assembly. (Actually, the
Accusump is more geared towards dudes like @Erik the Awful who are trying to cure a loss of
oil pressure when his oil pickup is uncovered during high-G maneuvers, especially coming out
of the corners under full throttle.)

****

As a final thought about these new-fangled lighter than ever '0W' engine oils, here's an old post
from 'Bob is the Oil Guy' website that I found to be really interesting, especially what comes
next after something lighter than 0W is developed? (Bob is the Oil Guy) It's a good read -- more
light than heat is shared on the subject...plus the resident oil geeks refer to centistokes, too.

I enjoy this discussion, for we all share a deep passion to maximize the quality of lubrication
that we are giving our faithful traveling companions.

Cheers --

 

[L31MaxExpress]

These are valid points. The OP comes across as pretty savvy & has already
gone part way down the path of upping the viscosity to solve a specific problem. But
the one thing we could add to the heavier-vis work-around recommended above would
be to drive the engine gently until the engine is fully up to operating temperature?

My thought process is also taking into account that an engine with worn bearings will
have extra wear elsewhere, so a heavier viscosity is not as much of a 'negative' as it
would be in a fresh build on a stand where I've personally verified all clearances
are 'as new'.


Exactly. If I allow myself to refresh/optimize my L29, I will be heading in this direction.

Once I have ensured ideal clearances on the engine side of the oil filter, I will (continue to)
run the OEM oil cooler, tastefully add the mechanical oil pressure gauge for a cross-check
for the instrument cluster gauge / no-kidding monitoring ability, and then run the 0W-40
or 0W-50 oil. (Oil technology *has* changed since the '99 FSM was printed, so why not
take advantage of it?)

And if I get what I really want (near instant oil pressure on a cold start + continued 100% quiet
valvetrain) then I will be all set. Like the OP, no doubt that with a fresh motor & @L31MaxExpress 's
approach my big block truck will outlast the owner. :0)

****

Then again, under the 'if some is good...' mindset, I've always wanted to scratch the itch where
my powerplant is never started without already having full engine oil pressure protecting my
precious bits. Behold the Accusump engine oil accumulator: (LINK) Imagine during the previous
engine shutdown you charge the accumulator with a quart or so of 50+ psi oil, which is then
trapped when you turn off the engine.

During a subsequent engine restart, you first release the contents of the accumulator on the
engine side of the oil filter's anti-drainback valve, you see the oil pressure come up on your
mechanical oil pressure gauge, and then you start the engine when all is right in lubrication world.

Overkill? Quite possibly. But in Road Trip's perfect world he would never have to worry about
too thick an engine oil delaying the critical lubrication to the rotating assembly. (Actually, the
Accusump is more geared towards dudes like @Erik the Awful who are trying to cure a loss of
oil pressure when his oil pickup is uncovered during high-G maneuvers, especially coming out
of the corners under full throttle.)

****

As a final thought about these new-fangled lighter than ever '0W' engine oils, here's an old post
from 'Bob is the Oil Guy' website that I found to be really interesting, especially what comes
next after something lighter than 0W is developed? (Bob is the Oil Guy) It's a good read -- more
light than heat is shared on the subject...plus the resident oil geeks refer to centistokes, too.

I enjoy this discussion, for we all share a deep passion to maximize the quality of lubrication
that we are giving our faithful traveling companions.

Cheers --

An accumulator that had a normally closed 12V solenoid would be ideal. When you shut off the key, the solenoid closes. When you turn the key on it unloads its contents. Then start like normal.

Project Farms test of engine oils is quite good. It is wild to watch how oil behaves after it is in the deep freeze, especially after it is cooked.

 

[0xDEADBEEF]

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This chart is exactly why I run 10w-30 in everything. 0F is like a once in a lifetime occurrence down here and I'm probably not driving anyway because everything is shut down.

 

[Supercharged111]

This chart is exactly why I run 10w-30 in everything. 0F is like a once in a lifetime occurrence down here and I'm probably not driving anyway because everything is shut down.

The first number is 0* C, not F. I forgot to foot stomp that earlier. The 2 numbers coincide with the freezing and boiling point of water.

And folks in my racing class have pretty much abandoned accumulators. Presumably they are to blame for a number of engine failures. I believe charging the thing mid corner was starving the engines. Not sure, I get by with my stock oil pan and short SBC style pickup.

 

[0xDEADBEEF]

The first number is 0* C, not F. I forgot to foot stomp that earlier. The 2 numbers coincide with the freezing and boiling point of water.

And folks in my racing class have pretty much abandoned accumulators. Presumably they are to blame for a number of engine failures. I believe charging the thing mid corner was starving the engines. Not sure, I get by with my stock oil pan and short SBC style pickup.

It's F. These are air temperatures, 110C ain't happening.

10w-30 is good down to 0F or -20C per the graph. Perfect for my climate.

 

[L31MaxExpress]

The first number is 0* C, not F. I forgot to foot stomp that earlier. The 2 numbers coincide with the freezing and boiling point of water.

And folks in my racing class have pretty much abandoned accumulators. Presumably they are to blame for a number of engine failures. I believe charging the thing mid corner was starving the engines. Not sure, I get by with my stock oil pan and short SBC style pickup.

I run the 5qt pans, big block pump, and milodon windage tray in my SBC. I had a 7qt winged pan to go on my 383 in the 97, but it interfered with the crossmember in the 97. Fit the L31 in the 87 G20 though, so it is on that engine. I only put it on that engine because it was clean and new but I am not worried about the engine ever getting starved of oil with it. I did have to use a low profile Hayden oil cooler adapter and a short LT1 Camaro oil filter to run both. The GMT400 oil cooler lines fit the older G20 chassis nicely and eliminate the quick disconnects at the radiator that my 97 van uses.

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[Supercharged111]

It's F. These are air temperatures, 110C ain't happening.

10w-30 is good down to 0F or -20C per the graph. Perfect for my climate.

Sorry, I wasn't referencing the graph. Rather trying to state that a 5W30 oil is 5W at 0*C and a 30W at 100*C.

 

[0xDEADBEEF]

Sorry, I wasn't referencing the graph. Rather trying to state that a 5W30 oil is 5W at 0*C and a 30W at 100*C.

Gotcha.

 

[Road Trip]

Sorry, I wasn't referencing the graph. Rather trying to state that a 5W30 oil is 5W at 0*C and a 30W at 100*C.

The SAE Hi-Temp specification has stayed clear & unambiguous for a long time -- it really is 100°C. (212°F)

Interestingly, it's possible to overcool engine oil -- it's generally agreed that (especially for street-driven vehicles)
the best engine oil temp is just over the boiling point of water, so that when the engine is up to temp the
blow-by contaminants (water vapor) are boiled out of the lubricant & removed by the PCV subsystem...instead
of having this moisture hanging around in the crankcase and helping to turn engine oil into sludge. (!)

In English, the trucks that came equipped with engine oil 'coolers' benefit the engine's lifeblood during both
extreme southern heat as well as becoming the engine oil 'heater' in northern US/Canada during shorter-trip
cold weather operation. (!)

****

On the other hand, when it comes to low temp testing the SAE specs get a bit confusing, especially given
the fact that SAE has changed up the low temp (W rating) over the years. But I think I've got a
handle on all this. (NOTE: The following is optional reading for normal folks. Amateur tribologist? Check it out: )

=========================================================================

1) While unknowingly referencing old SAE documents:

For example, when I was reading about the difference between specs for a 20W vs. a straight weight "20" oil,
it turns out that the straight 20 weight oil is spec'd at 40°C (104°F) & 100°C. (212°F)

Meanwhile, 20W oil is indeed spec'd at 0°F. (-17°C):

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The 'W' denotes a different (cold oriented) testing strategy. 20W is rated at a different temp than straight 20. (!)

2) Referencing the new 2015 SAE document for winter & non-winter engine oil grades: (J300)

OK, so after locating excerpts from SAE's J300 doc & giving it a read, I now understand where a lot of the
confusion surrounding engine oil low-temp specs have come from.

First of all, years ago the 'W' rating indicated that this oil was tested at 0° Fahrenheit. Now, according
to the 2015 document, the cold temp ratings are now made in °Centigrade. Furthermore, the actual resistance
to flow is now held as a constant, and actual "temp to W rating' is on a sliding temperature scale?

Here's an excerpt that actually makes this pretty clear:

NOTE: I've added the matching Fahrenheit numbers for those of us who grew up with this stuff.

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(credit: Wiki link)

Given all of the above, when the SAE moved the low-temp testing goalposts for the W(inter) rating, it created
some confusion regarding 0°F vs. 0°C. And now the sliding temp scale?

Another thing about the oil ratings is that there is an increasing overlap between
Winter (0W, 5W, 10W, 15W, 20W, & 25W) rated oils vs. the
non-winter 100° C rated (8, 12, 16, 20, 30, 40, 50, & 60) oils. SAE tried to
minimize the confusion by incrementing the new weights by 4 to help avoid
end-customer confusion. I don't know -- it seems that regular folks have
a lot of questions surrounding all this. I know I do. :0)

If anything, I still have confidence in the oil viscosity chart in the '99 C/K Service Manual.

Here's hoping we're all on the same (SAE) page now.