Help with Carb on computer truck (now wont start at all)

[TacosnBeer]

I dont know either but, when I deleted the codes while it was running is the only time I can rev it without it bogging

 

[SAATR]

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Pink should be the keyswitch power wire running to the original coil in this diagram. It's a straight run to the fuse block and should not be affected by diagnostic codes.

However.... Get a meter and check voltage to the coil with the codes cleared versus codes active. While codes may not affect the keyswitch circuit directly, perhaps something is being turned on or off with the code that is dropping voltage on that circuit.

Things like this are the biggest problem with troubleshooting a PO's kludged together project. You never know what exactly was done and how everything does or doesn't work together.

 

[Erik the Awful]

First, cut off all those crappy crimp connectors and replace them with heat-shrink terminals. I buy 'em by the bucket nowadays.
https://www.amazon.com/Connectors-Camtek-Waterproof-Electrical-Automotive/dp/B07L5JW5G9/
https://www.amazon.com/Connectors-Qibaok-Waterproof-Electrical-Automotive/dp/B081F78RVF/

That brown wire that turns pink? Cut out the miscolored section of wire when you replace that splice.

That won't fix your problem, but if you don't fix that stuff now it can strand you down the road.

 

[TacosnBeer]

You must be registered for see images attach

Pink should be the keyswitch power wire running to the original coil in this diagram. It's a straight run to the fuse block and should not be affected by diagnostic codes.

However.... Get a meter and check voltage to the coil with the codes cleared versus codes active. While codes may not affect the keyswitch circuit directly, perhaps something is being turned on or off with the code that is dropping voltage on that circuit.

Things like this are the biggest problem with troubleshooting a PO's kludged together project. You never know what exactly was done and how everything does or doesn't work together.

As soon as the sun comes up here in Hawaii I will do that! I am debating just running a wire from the fuse box to eliminate the ECM all together and see if that changes anything. I will check the voltage first though. Trust me, I am aware of the wire **** show under the hood. Although the PO was an ASE Certified mechanic, he half-assed this one for sure. Like I mentioned before though... the truck is clean, no rust, legal, and a newer dash style RCSB - none of which is easy to find in Hawaii.

First, cut off all those crappy crimp connectors and replace them with heat-shrink terminals. I buy 'em by the bucket nowadays.
https://www.amazon.com/Connectors-Camtek-Waterproof-Electrical-Automotive/dp/B07L5JW5G9/
https://www.amazon.com/Connectors-Qibaok-Waterproof-Electrical-Automotive/dp/B081F78RVF/

That brown wire that turns pink? Cut out the miscolored section of wire when you replace that splice.

That won't fix your problem, but if you don't fix that stuff now it can strand you down the road.

Amen! I hate crappy wiring. As soon as I find the problem, I plan to clean up all the wiring as best I can.

 

[TacosnBeer]

Went in the garage this morning to mess with the truck and my multi-meter is dead dead *as in no workie anymore* so, that kept me from checking the voltage. I did play with the timing a bit.. tried it at 8 and at 14 and no change... put it back to 12 and still bogs and if I WOT and just hold it wide open it bogs, pops and pumps fire from the carb then shuts off.

I also checked the cap and rotor, both look new inside... firing order is perfect too.

Then had to take my dog to the vet and that's an hour and a half one way!

 

[skylark]

Went in the garage this morning to mess with the truck and my multi-meter is dead dead *as in no workie anymore* so, that kept me from checking the voltage. I did play with the timing a bit.. tried it at 8 and at 14 and no change... put it back to 12 and still bogs and if I WOT and just hold it wide open it bogs, pops and pumps fire from the carb then shuts off.

I also checked the cap and rotor, both look new inside... firing order is perfect too.

Then had to take my dog to the vet and that's an hour and a half one way!

Do you go to kona for a vet?

 

[TacosnBeer]

Do you go to kona for a vet?

Kona is about 2 hours from where I live. My vet is mobile but her actual clinic is in Ocean View on the bottom end of the island. lil over an hour drive but, they are rebuilding two bridges along the way. Island problems... no way around things like that.

 

[TacosnBeer]

ok, I hot-wired the distributor and it didn't make a difference. She still bogged.

talked to the PO and he confirmed, he had a brand new 750 carb on it and it did the same thing... he put that same 750 carb on another older 350 and it was fine... no issues. So, that tells me it probably isn't the carb.

I have no clue what else it could be. I am at a loss at this point.

 

[skylark]

Kona is about 2 hours from where I live. My vet is mobile but her actual clinic is in Ocean View on the bottom end of the island. lil over an hour drive but, they are rebuilding two bridges along the way. Island problems... no way around things like that.

Our avatar picture was taken in the parking lot of the bake shop in Naalehu. Awesome place to be.

 

[skylark]

ok, I hot-wired the distributor and it didn't make a difference. She still bogged.

talked to the PO and he confirmed, he had a brand new 750 carb on it and it did the same thing... he put that same 750 carb on another older 350 and it was fine... no issues. So, that tells me it probably isn't the carb.

I have no clue what else it could be. I am at a loss at this point.

You need to check the voltage at the coil when it is failing.