HELP!!!, need some alternator questions answered.

[Crookedaxle]

"NEW" alternators sold at typical parts-stores are Communist Chinese junk. The rebuilt units--if they're done properly--at least had parts made by major manufacturers to OEM-level tolerances, with the high-failure items replaced.

I'd much rather have a PROPERLY rebuilt unit than a "new" alternator or starter. And, yeah, "good used" is another fine option.

Even the "new" AC Delco unit?

My first choice would be a rebuilt from a local reputable rebuilder that would use quality parts but they're few and far between nowadays. Like I said further up in this conversation, ultimately I'm going to upgrade and need to do some homework first. I heard so many conflicting answers from the "experts" on Friday that it made my head spin.

 

[Schurkey]

Even the "new" AC Delco unit?

Best I can tell, "Delco" is a sales organization, not a manufacturing organization. They buy from whatever suppliers they choose, re-box, and sell under their name.

Delco has three or four "lines", if you're buying the Original Equipment line, they're claiming you're getting the same part GM would use on the assembly line. They've got a "discount" line, a "Professional" line...you get the idea.

HOWEVER, I've purchased an outside mirror for a Lumina, the broken one on the car said "Made in Canada" and after fourteen years, the plastic was still shiny black. The "Genuine GM" replacement that I got at the local Chevy dealership came in a sealed box, said "Made In China" on the side, and the black plastic was dull grey in six months. So "Genuine GM" may still not be the quality you think it's going to be.

The auto parts industry has more than it's share of criminals, and some of them are getting big bucks working for GM...Ford...Chrysler...etc.

Trust noone.

 

[Ken K]

I grew up in the era where we rebuilt everything. You're CS133 is no different, but when it came out new, few offered parts. I was at the dealer in the 90's and they list no service parts, later to find that 28 different voltage regulators where offer depending on platform, engine, architecture and electrical system. I agree on the upgrade to an AD 244 alternator and requires little work for fitment. But if you are not comfortable taking one apart, you are at the mercy of a boxed unit or local rebuilder. For parts, identification, information and parts or complete alternators, go to; alternator man.com. I update my AD 244 with their better designed rectifier bridge assembly using heat transfer grease. The AD 233 / 244 is design to get the heat out. Other than brushes wearing over time, there is little to fail other than a diode on the rectifier. There is no way to count the number of alternators, carburetors or distributors I have rebuilt. If you earn you living by flat rate, it pay way better to fix one than to open a box. Plus, I knew it was correct and would last another 5,000 hours. Hope you got it fixed as clocking is easy, brushes are normal, clean the rotor contact rings, test the stator for shorts to frame, support the end housings to remove or install new bearings. Easy...after you do 50 or 60 of these.

 

[454cid]

Best I can tell, "Delco" is a sales organization, not a manufacturing organization. They buy from whatever suppliers they choose, re-box, and sell under their name.

All of GM's brands are marketing organizations. It's been that way since the early-ish 80's.

HOWEVER, I've purchased an outside mirror for a Lumina, the broken one on the car said "Made in Canada" and after fourteen years, the plastic was still shiny black. The "Genuine GM" replacement that I got at the local Chevy dealership came in a sealed box, said "Made In China" on the side, and the black plastic was dull grey in six months. So "Genuine GM" may still not be the quality you think it's going to be.

The further you get away from production, time wise, the more likely you'll get something less than what you had originally.

 

[Crookedaxle]

Best I can tell, "Delco" is a sales organization, not a manufacturing organization. They buy from whatever suppliers they choose, re-box, and sell under their name.

Delco has three or four "lines", if you're buying the Original Equipment line, they're claiming you're getting the same part GM would use on the assembly line. They've got a "discount" line, a "Professional" line...you get the idea.

HOWEVER, I've purchased an outside mirror for a Lumina, the broken one on the car said "Made in Canada" and after fourteen years, the plastic was still shiny black. The "Genuine GM" replacement that I got at the local Chevy dealership came in a sealed box, said "Made In China" on the side, and the black plastic was dull grey in six months. So "Genuine GM" may still not be the quality you think it's going to be.

The auto parts industry has more than it's share of criminals, and some of them are getting big bucks working for GM...Ford...Chrysler...etc.

Trust noone.

Ya, I hear you. Good to know. I've wondered about parts I've seen advertised as "Delco" and "AC Delco" if there's a difference or they are just not typing the full name out. I also see "Remy" parts advertised but they split off from Delco years ago I'm sure. Don't know the history but I'm going to look into it a bit.

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=delco+remy

 

[Crookedaxle]

I grew up in the era where we rebuilt everything. You're CS133 is no different, but when it came out new, few offered parts. I was at the dealer in the 90's and they list no service parts, later to find that 28 different voltage regulators where offer depending on platform, engine, architecture and electrical system. I agree on the upgrade to an AD 244 alternator and requires little work for fitment. But if you are not comfortable taking one apart, you are at the mercy of a boxed unit or local rebuilder. For parts, identification, information and parts or complete alternators, go to; alternator man.com. I update my AD 244 with their better designed rectifier bridge assembly using heat transfer grease. The AD 233 / 244 is design to get the heat out. Other than brushes wearing over time, there is little to fail other than a diode on the rectifier. There is no way to count the number of alternators, carburetors or distributors I have rebuilt. If you earn you living by flat rate, it pay way better to fix one than to open a box. Plus, I knew it was correct and would last another 5,000 hours. Hope you got it fixed as clocking is easy, brushes are normal, clean the rotor contact rings, test the stator for shorts to frame, support the end housings to remove or install new bearings. Easy...after you do 50 or 60 of these.

Looking into this a little more, supposedly upgrading to a CS144 from a CS130 is pretty straightforward. I had my hands on one Sat. at the boneyard but was too gun shy by then and went with the sure thing with the CS130 instead. What does an AD model offer over a CS144?

 

[Crookedaxle]

The further you get away from production, time wise, the more likely you'll get something less than what you had originally.

Or in my case I know damn well that there is a cheaper part number out there that's exactly the same and would directly fit mine if I simply re-clocked it and the auto parts places are bending me over the barrel because it's an oddball due to the clocking I'm assuming. I just wasn't in the position to research it all on Friday.

 

[454cid]

Or in my case I know damn well that there is a cheaper part number out there that's exactly the same and would directly fit mine if I simply re-clocked it and the auto parts places are bending me over the barrel because it's an oddball due to the clocking I'm assuming. I just wasn't in the position to research it all on Friday.

I don't understand this "re-clocking" The mounts are cast into the housing, they are where they are. Buy the alternator with mounting ears where you need them.

 

[Crookedaxle]

I don't understand this "re-clocking" The mounts are cast into the housing, they are where they are. Buy the alternator with mounting ears where you need them.

There's a third bolt used for a rear attachment on the back case on mine that has to be re-clocked to the front case. Doing that also positions the battery terminal and rectangular plug in where it's supposed to be. One not clocked right will work though if you leave the rear mount detached like I had to to get it home. You also can't unplug the rectangular plug in without removing the alternator if it's not clocked right. And, on mine the front tabs are 180 degrees from each other. Some are different than that too. And....some have a different spread from the C/L of the alternator case. The first response I got in this thread said they're all the same. Not even close to the truth.

I'd be willing to bet that there are a lot of 454 TBIs that have had that rear mount bracket removed from the head and thrown in the scrap pile when a different (incorrect) alternator was put on. I don't know if it's needed or not. I drove 40 miles without it, that's all I know.

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[Ken K]

The AD244 is considered to be the best alternators because it contains duel internal fans and large passages on the back to get the heat off of the frame where the diodes pass heat. Heat is what kills the rectifier bridge, causing one of 6 diodes to fail to open, short or resistive bridge. There are a lot of really good parts to make this alternator almost bullet proof... Just check out Alternatorman.com for info, identification and up-graded parts from rectifier, brushes, bearings and different regulators with connectors.
I never buy a used vehicle and put it on the road without going through everything, including the alternator. I did these parts on my AD244 before placing it in service on my LS swap. Only the stator change change the output in amps.