13.94mm at the skinny lip at the base of the pintle.
thanks for checking for me, well my morning update is disappointing. the throttle kicker seems to be working correctly and didn't effect my problem regardless of how i adjust it. i removed the tps and drilled out the mounting holes to allow for more adjustment and it didn't make any real difference either. so i moved on to the IAC, mine measures the exact same as yours, i had the parts store look up which one i bought and it was a bwd 21758 (10mm) so that makes no sense. i had them order both so i can look at them (the 12mm is bwd 21813). called the local Chevy dealer and they knew even less. the guy said he could get one, didn't know the size or what it looked like and it would be $160, so that's out.
i did find another article that suggests the 10mm is the thread in style like you mentioned, so the parts store may be completely wrong. i looked at my 89 4.3 blazer and it has the thread in style.
https://workshop-manuals.com/chevro...nic/component_information/diagrams/page_3903/
i can say that the problem is definitely temperature related as the problem i have completely stops once the engine is at operating temp, and it will do it when i turn on the AC and the engine gets a load on it. besides the coolant temp sensor what gives the computer temp readings?
long story short, i ended up advancing my timing a little bit and gave up for the night. i don't even trust the timing marks on this truck, it doesn't seem to idle right until its around +12 degrees or more on the flywheel.
crazy question here, i replaced the EMC but what about the PROM that you clip into the computer? what does it control and can it go bad. i know that's a long shot but ive just been wondering/