help me ID these parts please

[grampadirt]

Couple more things to add to the pot,how are the grounds at the thermostat housing? How 'bout the coolant temperature sensor?The CTS plays a major part with the fuel delivery(aka trims).

You can do yourself a big favor(as I did) and subscribe to ALLDATAdiy.com and learn all about your truck,there is a ton of info there.

 

[grampadirt]

There is an adjustment for the diaphragm,I tried it and had no effect

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Idle Speed Control Actuator Adjustment


Procedure:

• Before adjusting ISC actuator you must first check the minimum idle speed to be within specifications. Refer to SPECIFICATIONS/IDLE SPEED. (ISC actuator must have vacuum applied so that it is not contacting the throttle lever.) See image VIEW A.
• Remove vacuum hose on ISC actuator on warm engine.
• Adjust ISC actuated idle speed to 1300 +/- 50 rpm. See image VIEW B.
• Install vacuum hose.

ALLDATA strikes again,damn site changes the pics.

 

[Macfluke]

You can do yourself a big favor(as I did) and subscribe to ALLDATAdiy.com and learn all about your truck,there is a ton of info there.

x2 found a lot of info there...

 

[grampadirt]

x2 found a lot of info there...

It's sort of funny,I've been paying yearly instead of paying only once and having it forever thinking I might not have the burb for another year and here I am ten years later and still driving it,go figure lol.

 

[HD_DUALLY]

Couple more things to add to the pot,how are the grounds at the thermostat housing? How 'bout the coolant temperature sensor?The CTS plays a major part with the fuel delivery(aka trims).QUOTE]

ok i didn't have much time last night but i did get to look at this for a minute, i put some vacuum on the pod and it retracted fine, getting strong vacuum from throttle body. i removed the solenoid and tested it with 12 volts and i heard it clicking and verified it was working. i did find the adjustment screw was turned way in so it wasn't contacting anything on a cold engine so i spun it out a bit to help the idle, but still got the same result when i put it into gear, hard stall.

the CTS on the front of the intake is brand new, the grounds near the thermostat look good to me. ive gone over every inch of wiring i can see and everything looks good. some of the pigtails on the ac compressor and condenser are wearing out but that's about it. i suppose i could remove all the grounds and just clean up the underside?

 

[HD_DUALLY]

one other thing i thought of, when i replaced the IAC a while back i saw there were 2 sizes, 12mm and 10mm. now not knowing which one i had i measured mine best i could with some calipers and ended up going with the 12mm. could i have selected the wrong size, would it even fit in my TB? and if so could this cause similar issues? maybe it had the wrong size to begin with?

 

[grampadirt]

I would imagine yours is the 12mm.I know there is another kind of IAC but that one screws in.What condition is your TPS in? Have you set the timing? (oem is 4 before with the tan wire disconnected,I have mine set at 8 before).

Do this....loosen the screw that holds the TPS in just enough where you can move it.If the idle goes up a little tighten the screw and see if the engine will stay running when put in Drive.Even though it's been said that the TPS has no adjustment there is a little play in the hole for the mounting screw.I discovered with my Tuner Pro RT program that my TPS MUST BE at 0% at idle or it idles like ****.Set at 1or 2 % and it don't like it.These settings have to be monitored by a scan tool or a program like Tuner Pro RT.If you're interested in this program check it out http://www.tunerpro.net/ It takes a laptop and an ALDL adapter and a couple of files to make it work.This website is THE place to go to for info http://www.gearhead-efi.com/

 

[grampadirt]

Here is a short video of Tuner Pro in action,sorry for the lousy video quality,I had an old camera.

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[grampadirt]

How's the EGR valve?If there is any doubt remove it and clean the intake port with a screwdriver and a vacuum,clean the EGR pintle as well,make sure the gasket is in good condition.BTW,at idle and WOT it is closed,all other times it's as needed.If the EGR valve is partially open at idle it can effect the idle.

Sorry for the numerous and large posts,I'm thinking of things as I go lol.

 

[HD_DUALLY]

How's the EGR valve?If there is any doubt remove it and clean the intake port with a screwdriver and a vacuum,clean the EGR pintle as well,make sure the gasket is in good condition.BTW,at idle and WOT it is closed,all other times it's as needed.If the EGR valve is partially open at idle it can effect the idle.

Sorry for the numerous and large posts,I'm thinking of things as I go lol.

thanks for all the ideas, here is a list of everything i have done that may help you.

full tune up (plugs wires cap rotor)
new distributor with ignition control module
set timing10 different times (anywhere from 4 to 10 degrees)
IAC
TPS
MAP
CTS
cleaned and tested EGR with ohmmeter (tested good so i left it since its kind of $$)
cleaned EGR passages in intake thoroughly
new tb gasket
removed tb and cleaned/inspected it
fuel filter
air filter
new ignition coil
new ECM
new or cleaned ground contacts
opened up wire harness and checked for breaks or damage
had alternator and battery tested at parts store.
ive done so many things to try to fix this issue it makes my head hurt.


bought a code reader but i think i really need a scan tool or some type of computer software. I'm reaching the limits of my mechanical knowledge. i will try the TPS sensor adjustment this weekend, i have seen people enlarge the mounting holes on them to get more play but didn't know much about it.

and heres a link to the IAC valves i was referring to. they look to mount the same they just have 2 different size pintles

https://www.oreillyauto.com/search/1994/chevrolet/k3500-pickup-4wd?q=IAC