header bolts loosening

[kenh]

Yes I know this is an issue with headers.

For some reason the #4 cylinder (left rear) header bolts absolutely won't stay tight. The others loosen some but these will back out a couple turns! I use a combination wrench with a second wrench as a cheater and pull tight as I can. Maybe split the flange so it can pull tight independent of the rest of the flange.

Does anybody have any tips.

I think I may have opened a can of worms here!

Ken

 

[Frank Enstein]

I would split the flanges only to fix a leak due to warpage. Use copper gaskets. They don't shrink. Safety wire the bolts. They only need to be about 25 foot/pounds. too tight and you will tweak the flange. There are special bolts that lock in various ways. The ones with the serrated steps on the washers by Mr. Gasket and the ones with the set screw by Summit are probably the easiest to use back there. The ones with the locking tabs with the E clips would be much harder to install. Summit has those too. Drilling a hole through the head of the bolt works well and is the cheapest option.

BTW is this a FERD engine? The back ones on ours are #7 and #8!

 

[alpinecrick]

On washboard gravel/dirt roads, I've seen header bolts wired with small diameter stainless cable break the cable.

 

[Frank Enstein]

An exhaust hanger connecting the header collector to the engine block or bellhousing might help that!

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

I finally went to Mr Gasket copper gaskets and these studs with red thread locker.

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Torqued them in to bottom out in my aluminum heads, didn't use the Ultra Copper" yet but, will use it too IF they ever come loose again.

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SO far so good!

 

[Schurkey]

#4 cylinder (left rear)

is this a FERD engine? The back ones on ours are #7 and #8!

Left rear of a Ford would be #8. #4 would be right rear.

 

[Donald Mitchell]

header bolts have always loosened since I was a kid in the 70s. Just keep a check o them.

 

[Erik the Awful]

On washboard gravel/dirt roads, I've seen header bolts wired with small diameter stainless cable break the cable.

Safety wire was pulled too tight. It's one of those sciences that looks like an art until you learn the tricks. Also, I'd probably go with .041" wire

I don't like the thread engagement on those nuts. I'd like to see at least one full exposed thread on the stud, but if it works, who am I to complain?

 

[alpinecrick]

Safety wire was pulled too tight. It's one of those sciences that looks like an art until you learn the tricks. Also, I'd probably go with .041" wire

I don't like the thread engagement on those nuts. I'd like to see at least one full exposed thread on the stud, but if it works, who am I to complain?

lol.....funny you should mention that. When the wire was pulled really tight it would begin breaking within a 100 miles! Thing is even when loosened the wire would still eventually break--but by then the header bolts would be loose........again......

Although still far from a sure thing, as TBI mentioned the stud and nut system is the best bet.

 

[kenh]

An exhaust hanger connecting the header collector to the engine block or bellhousing might help that!

My headers are the short direct manifold replacement style. I'm using a Y pipe to a single exhaust I'll have to look to see if I can run an anchor strap someplace.

header bolts have always loosened since I was a kid in the 70s. Just keep a check o them.

Yes me to. Was just thinking maybe there was new tech since that time

I currently have the stock OEM style gaskets in place now. So far they have been the best at staying tight.

Ken