Having trouble finding the right universal joints to buy

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Stringer

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I thought i was really good at part research but this one is tough for me. My 1996 C1500 Reg Cab W/T with the 4.3L, 96" bed, and 1 piece aluminum driveshaft (1gcec14w5tz106414) needs universal joints.

Having gone down this road before I wanted to get some type of spicer non-greasable u joints. After studying rockauto and entering my aforementioned vin in various websites i am coming up short. I thought i had it figured out that i needed a spicer 53614X and a spicer 5793X as they were the only ones that seem to fit my description. However in fitment details it states they are for "96.0" bed; with Aluminum Driveshaft Yoke; 1 Piece Driveshaft" but the yolk itself is steel upon inspection, driveshaft itself is aluminum :shrug:

Would anyone be able to tell be if these would be the correct parts, or if there is another non-greasable option i should be looking at?

Thanks for any help with this! :banghead:
 

454cid

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I thought i was really good at part research but this one is tough for me. My 1996 C1500 Reg Cab W/T with the 4.3L, 96" bed, and 1 piece aluminum driveshaft (1gcec14w5tz106414) needs universal joints.

Having gone down this road before I wanted to get some type of spicer non-greasable u joints. After studying rockauto and entering my aforementioned vin in various websites i am coming up short. I thought i had it figured out that i needed a spicer 53614X and a spicer 5793X as they were the only ones that seem to fit my description. However in fitment details it states they are for "96.0" bed; with Aluminum Driveshaft Yoke; 1 Piece Driveshaft" but the yolk itself is steel upon inspection, driveshaft itself is aluminum :shrug:

Would anyone be able to tell be if these would be the correct parts, or if there is another non-greasable option i should be looking at?

Thanks for any help with this! :banghead:

The slip yoke will be a forged steel part. There will be two yokes on the aluminum driveshaft, one welded on each end, of the tube, and they'll be aluminum.
 

Stringer

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yeah i need to find out if i can do this with a 6" c-clamp for real, or if i need something else. i sold my shop press so im screwed there. if i need a tool for this and its under 75 or so i may get it. i remember doing my others and it was not a big deal, had to use a map torch to melt out old glue or plastic insert of some kind. that was a three piece shaft with center bearing so hopefull;y this is easier.

i wanted to plan ahead and get good ujoints, and make sure i didnt have to settle on what the parts store in town has.

may as well replace that transmission seal while im in there
 
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RichLo

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Take caliper measurements and go to a parts store, they have every dimension needed in the U-Joint catalogues.

And for removal, I use a vice and large sockets. Or a larger c-clamp could work, 6" might be a bit too small though.
 

0xDEADBEEF

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Maybe a ball joint tool would work if you can find one big enough. I had to beat the living hell out of mine with a hammer and socket.
 

stutaeng

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Don't you have a parts store nearby? I rented their ball joint tool at Oreilley's. Mine had the little molded injection nylon and I heated it with a heat gun (couldn't find the torch) and the plastic oozed out out of the little holes. It worked well.

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Zerio29

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Don't you have a parts store nearby? I rented their ball joint tool at Oreilley's. Mine had the little molded injection holes and I heated it with a heat gun (couldn't find the torch) and the plastic oozed out. It worked well.

I never thought about using a ball joint tool for UJ's. I guess why not. My shop has an actual U-joint puller, which a good parts shop should also have for rent:
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Honestly worth every penny if you can manage to find them to rent. So much time saved.

otherwise it's not usually too much work to cut it out and hit the cups with a hammer... usually works on the real stubborn ones
 
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