going with a carb'd small block

[CarolinaContingency]

Do you mind me asking why you want to pull the electronics?

I did this with my wife’s Ford and being honest.... %$&@ that. If you’re going to strip the electronics I’d buy a whole new basic wiring harness and rewire it so it’s simple and you don’t have to worry about any corroded lines. I’d refer to American Auto Wire for that.

I also wouldn’t put in an HEI. My experience on my truck with them was fine, but hers was another story. You have to have a consistent 12v to run properly. Her Ford ignition line running out of the ICM was 12 to start then 9 running. That was fine for the ignition coil, but the HEI wasn’t having it. So it had to be wired straight in to the ignition.

I’d also switch over to a mechanical fuel pump. Frankly, they’re a bit easier to swap out unless you’ve modified your bed like mine to have a hatch directly above the fuel pump. Sounds like a fun project regardless.

 

[Trigger_guard]

I guess it depends on if he plans to "remove" the electronics as opposed to just "unplugging" them.

And conveniently there's already a switched 12v wire for the factory distributor

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[PlayingWithTBI]

Current mining, or a long time ago? Michigan used to be big into copper, but that was eons ago.

Still mining a lot around the state.

 

[454cid]

I also wouldn’t put in an HEI. My experience on my truck with them was fine, but hers was another story. You have to have a consistent 12v to run properly. Her Ford ignition line running out of the ICM was 12 to start then 9 running. That was fine for the ignition coil, but the HEI wasn’t having it. So it had to be wired straight in to the ignition.

Wasn't the reduced voltage deal a points thing originally?

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

IIRC that was with the big ceramic ballast resistor mounted on the fire wall?

 

[grey wolf]

Luckily for me, there are no more emissions tests where I live. They used to do it, but I guess enough people are driving newer model cars that they think it is no longer necessary. I used to hate trying to get modified cars through those tests.

Honestly, I'd love to build and swap in a v8, and I may still do it, but in reality, I'm probably just going to keep that 4.3 running. It's hard for me to do this kind of stuff without my own garage or work space. I live in an apartment, so anything like this has to be done in a corner of the shop where i work (at a Honda dealer). It's hard to get anything done that takes more than a day, but i can always build the engine on my own time, maybe take a couple days off for the actual swapping part. If I actually do it, I'll be sure to post some pics!

 

[CarolinaContingency]

Wasn't the reduced voltage deal a points thing originally?[/QUOTE

I believe so. Technically the voltage is lower anyways, smaller plug gap, and adjustable condenser (which should be enough). Start up definitely requires the 12v, but running the resistor 9v would keep your contact points from burning out faster in theory.

I definitely see the merits of the HEI like larger plug gap, higher voltage, cleaner stream lined look, easier to set, etc. However, I’ve seen guys burn them out in a month running off the 12v constantly. Especially when they forget to use heat paste. Your points will take a beating. My first low end HEI lasted less than a year and my points were fried, very fried.

Being straight forward on this project, I’ll never run another carb system again unless it’s on a freaking lawn mower, or something I don’t care about. Compared to my TBI it’s crap. I feel like I have to summon spirits and make a blood sacrifices at times to make that POS get moving. I have a few ideas I might be trying next year to get it running more efficiently, but I’m not a carb guy for sure.

 

[Jerryred94silvy]

I’ve done a similar swap. My truck went from a 4.3 vortec that died mysteriously to a carb’d two piece rear main 355 (engines been rebuilt and bored out). Only difference is I have an auto trans, but even with that it wasn’t too difficult. I got motor mount parts from Jegs and Autozone and that puppy dropped right in. Ran a wire to the tach port for an RPM signal for the trans and the pink wire off of the original coil to the ignition port for spark. And I’m running the factory in-tank fuel pump through a regulator set at 6 psi to the carb. Still working some small little bugs out here and there, but overall it’s been solid for me.

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[retorq]

They're copper since AZ is the copper state, I guess?

AZ is the Grand Canyon state ... it says right on the historic plate.

 

[91c1500sleeper]

I have a 91' with a carb'd 350 mildly built. NV3500 bolted right up to the 2 piece rear main block. Like mentioned above you need the tach wire, and power wire to the dizzy. I removed the PCM a few years ago as it's not needed. All my gauges and speedo work. I did try running the fitech crap and ditched it for the carb. I installed a wideband AFR gauge tho to tune the carb. The truck runs like a ***** ape when I want it too. My neighbor just gave me a 2/4 drop kit for it as well. Just get the parts needed for a 350 and yank that lil turd V6 out and scrap it. I would however install a new clutch,FW and pressure plate. Don't reuse the V6 stuff. Also replace the U-joint.