Frame Refinishing - Paint or Powder

[Dave454ss]

So after some debate, I've decided to do a frame off "Restifcation" to my 98 RCSB...Gonna start with the foundation so blasting and refinishing the frame is where I'm gonna start. Got some quotes and now I'm torn between Painting the Frame or Powdercoating the frame.... Cost is the same either way.

Heres how I see it..
Paint - Easy to Patch up/respray if I ever do a mod down the road or get damage. BUT not quite as durable of a finish.
Powder - Superior Durability, but if I ever want to mod it, patching that area will be impossible with Powder and look shoddy with a paint patch up...

I can see other angles but thats where I'm hung up.
Big part of it is I am gonna lower it, but not sure by how much yet...plan was to go 2/4 and see how I like it, but now If I go powder, I'm almost considering putting the notch in right away...then I wonder if I want to notch the frame if I stay with 4...

Whatcha guys think?

 

[DESSERTNOVA]

I had really good results with industtial epoxys from ici paints such as bar rust 235 or there industrial off shore marine paint made to live in salt water aplications. The only catch is you may have to buy this through a company account as they dont like residents in housing developments spraying it in their front yard lmfao. It also allows easy touch up if a later modification ocuts.

 

[GarrettGmc]

Paint. Yes powder looks better on some applications but driving down the road your bound to toss rocks up at the frame which eventually will cause the powder to crack an chip.

 

[Macfluke]

back in the day I used DuPont Imron(epoxy) on frames, etc... and even Porsche alloy wheels. It held up very well only downside was the cost.

 

[7thdarkangel]

Paint. Yes powder looks better on some applications but driving down the road your bound to toss rocks up at the frame which eventually will cause the powder to crack an chip.

That's no necessarily true. Powder coat from my experiences is far more durable than an automotive paint. When done correctly i should not chip and crack with an impact very easily. I have powdered random steel pieces as a test and beat the crap out of it with a hammer. No chipping or cracking. It did however dent and move will the work piece. This is also why a lot of car builders have the frames coated.

Just my 2 pennys


I would figure out all the work that needs to be done to the frame and do it before trying to finish it. Otherwise you will be taking one step forward and two back through out the project. Come up with a game plane and final idea before starting. you will save your self time and money. Ask me how i know. haha

 

[Tech-GeeK1500]

As the others have stated, powder coat is nice but it's impossible to touch up. A single chip in the coating can lead to rust spreading under the powder coat which can't be repaired correctly without stripping the entire frame. Epoxy is definitely the best moisture barrier and it's much easier the repair down the road. I used a 2K epoxy on my frame after grinding/blasting it in my driveway then topped it off with a urethane based bedliner product from UPOL (raptor liner). I reduced it about 15 perfect so it would flow out of a paint gun and laid down a nice subtle texture that would resist rock chips but wasn't really rough either. http://www.gmt400.com/threads/repainting-my-entire-truck-frame-and-body-pictures.38517/page-3

 

[Dave454ss]

A single chip in the coating can lead to rust spreading under the powder coat which can't be repaired correctly without stripping the entire frame.

IMHO Thats really only true for "OEM" and "Crappy Aftermarket" Powder Jobs...all the Professional jobs I've had done are WAYYYY more durable then the original finishes. For example...I had a Fisher plow Re-Powder Coated...the factory finish came off in sheets, like you said, rust got underneath. KEY is (According to my guy) is most MFG's dont properly prep..they just degrease and powder..cheap & easy to do in a factory setting. BUT for powder to really stick long term it needs a properly prepared substrate..meaning the surface must be blasted/rough since Powder is a Mechanical bond.
My blade has a few scrapes & gashes...rust never past the actual "Scar"...been looking good for 9 winters now...So thats why I said in my OP...Powder is MUCH more durable..

 

[Tech-GeeK1500]

IMHO Thats really only true for "OEM" and "Crappy Aftermarket" Powder Jobs...all the Professional jobs I've had done are WAYYYY more durable then the original finishes. For example...I had a Fisher plow Re-Powder Coated...the factory finish came off in sheets, like you said, rust got underneath. KEY is (According to my guy) is most MFG's dont properly prep..they just degrease and powder..cheap & easy to do in a factory setting. BUT for powder to really stick long term it needs a properly prepared substrate..meaning the surface must be blasted/rough since Powder is a Mechanical bond.
My blade has a few scrapes & gashes...rust never past the actual "Scar"...been looking good for 9 winters now...So thats why I said in my OP...Powder is MUCH more durable..

Oh I'm sure it's much better than cheap factory coatings. Sounds like you're already sold on powder coat, which is going to look great. I was just trying to think long term maintenance, if it's going to be more of a show truck than powder coat is the way to go. Definitely get some pictures up if you go that route, I'd love to see a powdered 400 frame. Good luck!

 

[Dave454ss]

LOL...quite the opposite...I went to the coaters to drop off some stuff for work and originally asked them for a quote on just blasting the frame so I could work on it, and Epoxy Prime/Paint it myself once I was done...THEY were the ones convincing me to go Powder which got me to thinking as its honestly not worth me painting it for what they can powder it for...and that includes them blasting it...I go get it to work on it and then they can spot blast any areas I repair or modify and coat it when I bring it back.

Not a "Show Truck" in the sense of I plan on showing it...but she will be a Street Queen...no winters, no harsh weather, street only...Parked indoors at all times..

 

[94_Z71]

I coated my entire undercarriage with POR-15 about three years ago. It's a messy pain in the dick to put on, but it's still going strong. When it dries, that stuff is as hard as a rock. Easy to touch up, too. The only places that have worn are the spots I use to jack the truck up.