Fixing the headlight switch mounting problem

[mrnapolean1]

Fixing the headlight switch mounting problem (with remedies)

I am going to try something with a bezel from a 1992 GMC.

As 99.99999% of yall know these bezels had problems with the mounting screws holes with the headlight switch.

They crack and the next time you turn on your headlights, the switch goes back behind the cluster.

I will post pictures and a video later.....

 

[someotherguy]

I used short-cut pieces of drinking straw as forms, so that I could build up little cylinders of Devcon Plastic Welder glue. That stuff sets quickly, but doesn't get brittle. I laid the switch on top and installed the screws, and let the glue set around them. Crazy strong.

All 4 pretty much completely broken off

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Drinking straw pieces cut to size

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Filled up with glue, switch and screws installed. And yeah it's a little crooked; I was super tired and got in a hurry.

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Interested in seeing your method too; it's an all-too-common damage area on the 88-94's.

Richard

 

[mrnapolean1]

I don't think GM did through QA tests on these bezels.

I went to 6 junkyards and every bezel I found had the same problem.

 

[mrnapolean1]

Here is my remedy. First you start off with this:

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(Not pictured: 1/4" Square Wooden dowels, E6000 Glue)

Then I used the dremel/B&D RTX/Rotory tool (ill refer to as dremel) to cut off the remaining portions of the original standouts for the light switch.

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Getting 1/4" wooden dowels comes from this measurement:

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Using the E6000 muti-purpouse glue I cut some cut a wooden dowel that stretches from the bottom of the vent to the cargo switch housing. The same measurement was used for the other side. Then with the help and the guide of the original homes for placement I used some C clamps I held the wooden inserts in place for 24-48 hours. (I had to work that night).

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This is what I had after C clamp removal the next day:

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This is where it gets tricky. because the way the switch housing is designed, it WILL NOT sit flush with the newly installed wood mount points. I had to "feel" and notch out the wood to accommodate the switch housing. I also drilled the holes where the factory screws are going to be screwing into. I ended up with this:

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Reinforced it with more glue. I also had to replace the corner on this bezel using the same glue and some tooth picks to line it up.

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1 day later I installed the switch:

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Installed in the truck (Yes I know I got a hole where the factory head unit was...):

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[dwysywd]

Nice write up. Mine must have been done already BC it has extra screws now. But it was done clean like this.


Sent from my bag phone...

 

[twomanymontes]

Funny thing, my 94 still hasn't broken. Not even loose. But the one in my Brother's old Yukon broke off 3 bezels. I finally just ran a screw through center the last one.

 

[Dale1975]

I used short-cut pieces of drinking straw as forms, so that I could build up little cylinders of Devcon Plastic Welder glue. That stuff sets quickly, but doesn't get brittle. I laid the switch on top and installed the screws, and let the glue set around them. Crazy strong.

All 4 pretty much completely broken off

You must be registered for see images attach

Drinking straw pieces cut to size

You must be registered for see images attach

Filled up with glue, switch and screws installed. And yeah it's a little crooked; I was super tired and got in a hurry.

You must be registered for see images attach

Interested in seeing your method too; it's an all-too-common damage area on the 88-94's.

Richard

Did the straw and epoxy work? I’m getting ready to cast a new bezel out of resin and want to modify the problematic mounting holes before I make the mold.

 

[someotherguy]

Did the straw and epoxy work? I’m getting ready to cast a new bezel out of resin and want to modify the problematic mounting holes before I make the mold.

Yep, but that specific product is the only one I trust. Devcon Plastic Welder. I've used it in places I really didn't expect it to hold, like the screw bosses for cable-operated vent controls on an old BMW - lots of pressure put on some tiny screws. Also used it to reinforce some cracks in the defrost vent area across the middle of a 1995-1998 style dashboard in a super rough-riding 3500HD. Not many products I consider to be near magic, but this is one of 'em.

Richard

 

[AK 99]

Yep, but that specific product is the only one I trust. Devcon Plastic Welder. I've used it in places I really didn't expect it to hold, like the screw bosses for cable-operated vent controls on an old BMW - lots of pressure put on some tiny screws. Also used it to reinforce some cracks in the defrost vent area across the middle of a 1995-1998 style dashboard in a super rough-riding 3500HD. Not many products I consider to be near magic, but this is one of 'em.

Richard

I've used the same stuff in the past and I will agree that it works well and holds up great.

 

[Knuckle Dragger]

Did the straw and epoxy work? I’m getting ready to cast a new bezel out of resin and want to modify the problematic mounting holes before I make the mold.

Worked for me except let it set up without the screws and drilled the cured epoxy for the screws so the switch can be changed later if needed.