Engine Shutting off randomly

[viking2021]

I have a 1988 Chevy 2500 With a brand new Crate 350 from Gm. Been driving the truck for the past 2 months and this is now the third time that my engine has shut off with no warning. I still have all of my electronics suck has lights/radio/ wipers/ heat etc. When it shuts off i was able to start it right away the first 2 times this last time it cranked for a few seconds before it started. The truck does run pretty good but it does smell a little rich. I have replaced the fuel pump/ cap and rotor/ ignition module/ rebuilt the throttle body/ distributer/ all within the last 2 years. haven't driven it that much until recently. I also have a new y pipe to a flowmaster 40 single 2.5 inlet dual outlet 2.5 that is around a year old, no cat. I am getting a check engine light that sometimes comes on about 20 min into my 40 minute drive to work. But i am not sure how to read the codes. Thank you for your time

 

[RichLo]

That really sounds like an ignition module, you said you replaced it but those can be weak or defective from the factory. Did you use the heat transferring thermo grease under it when installing it? Some of them dont even come with a tube of that grease, if it doesnt, I just push it back across the parts counter and ask for a different brand.

 

[viking2021]

I would assume so yes i did not personally replace my father did as i was at work and the shop it was at i am pretty sure they did.

 

[Schurkey]

I have a 1988 Chevy 2500 With a brand new Crate 350 from Gm.

WHICH "crate 350"?

Is it still using the stock ignition and fuel system?

The truck does run pretty good but it does smell a little rich.

Misfire, most likely. Lack of catalytic converter will make it smell bad/rich, too.

I have replaced the fuel pump/ cap and rotor/ ignition module/ rebuilt the throttle body/ distributer/ all within the last 2 years. haven't driven it that much until recently. I also have a new y pipe to a flowmaster 40 single 2.5 inlet dual outlet 2.5 that is around a year old, no cat.

How old are the usual tune-up items--plug wires, plugs, fuel filter, air filter, PCV? Does the EGR work properly? When was the last time the initial timing and timing advance was verified? How old is the O2 sensor?

I am getting a check engine light that sometimes comes on about 20 min into my 40 minute drive to work. But i am not sure how to read the codes.

Yes, you should check the "codes". However, you need to connect a scan tool to verify EVERY sensor, and computer output. And also verify fuel pressure--does it prime? Does the fuel pressure drop before the engine stalls?

There's a dozen things that could cause stalling. More diagnosis needed.

 

[thinger2]

Checking the codes is really easy to do.
All you need is a paper clip.
Just google it. Its easy.
Strip the plastic end off of your positive battery connection and you will find it to be crusty green with corrosion.
If you havent replaced your cables, you have my guarantee that they are crudded full of crap.
Dont cut the end off of the cable, take some side cutters or a pocket knife or whatever and cut the plastic part off.
Go to the hardware store.
Get two 3/8-16 x 3/4 bolt and two nuts and two washers.
Clean the metal ring that you have left at the end of your cable after removing the plastic part.
If it is really bad, soak the end in a paste of baking soda and a bit of water.
Let that soak but keep it moist.
That nuetralizes the acid. Rinse it well and soak it again in vinegar.
That will etch the metal.
Probably overnight but keep an eye on it.
Rinse and dry.
Take the bolt and run the nut all of the way onto the bolt by hand.
No tools needed.
at this point
Stick the bolt through the end of the cable. Put the washer on the end of the bolt that protrudes through the end of the cable.
Thread the bolt into the battery by hand while making sure the washer stays inplace.
Hand tighten the bolt into the battery while making sure the nut is still against the bolt head.
Do not overtighten it. You can crack the battery case.
Just give a twist. Remember, you are threading steel into lead.
Know hold the bolt head with a wrench so it cant turn and tighten the nut onto the leftover end of the battery cable.

 

[viking2021]

WHICH "crate 350"?

Is it still using the stock ignition and fuel system?


Misfire, most likely. Lack of catalytic converter will make it smell bad/rich, too.


How old are the usual tune-up items--plug wires, plugs, fuel filter, air filter, PCV? Does the EGR work properly? When was the last time the initial timing and timing advance was verified? How old is the O2 sensor?


Yes, you should check the "codes". However, you need to connect a scan tool to verify EVERY sensor, and computer output. And also verify fuel pressure--does it prime? Does the fuel pressure drop before the engine stalls?

There's a dozen things that could cause stalling. More diagnosis needed.

The Crate 350 is from GM ordered off their website. yes i have the stock igniton and fuel system no aftermarket add ons yet. plugs wires pcv and o2 sensor were all replaced within the last year. The timing was verified about 4 months ago.

 

[HotWheelsBurban]

Checking the codes is really easy to do.
All you need is a paper clip.
Just google it. Its easy.
Strip the plastic end off of your positive battery connection and you will find it to be crusty green with corrosion.
If you havent replaced your cables, you have my guarantee that they are crudded full of crap.
Dont cut the end off of the cable, take some side cutters or a pocket knife or whatever and cut the plastic part off.
Go to the hardware store.
Get two 3/8-16 x 3/4 bolt and two nuts and two washers.
Clean the metal ring that you have left at the end of your cable after removing the plastic part.
If it is really bad, soak the end in a paste of baking soda and a bit of water.
Let that soak but keep it moist.
That nuetralizes the acid. Rinse it well and soak it again in vinegar.
That will etch the metal.
Probably overnight but keep an eye on it.
Rinse and dry.
Take the bolt and run the nut all of the way onto the bolt by hand.
No tools needed.
at this point
Stick the bolt through the end of the cable. Put the washer on the end of the bolt that protrudes through the end of the cable.
Thread the bolt into the battery by hand while making sure the washer stays inplace.
Hand tighten the bolt into the battery while making sure the nut is still against the bolt head.
Do not overtighten it. You can crack the battery case.
Just give a twist. Remember, you are threading steel into lead.
Know hold the bolt head with a wrench so it cant turn and tighten the nut onto the leftover end of the battery cable.

Yup. That's similar to what Dad came up with on the positive cables on this Burb. The main cable still has its plastic cover installed, but I check it periodically to be sure it's not getting grungy. The second one has the lug on both ends, so it's easy to put the bolt in. He used stainless steel bolt and nut, it's 3/8" coarse thread, 3/8-16 USS. I believe the bolt is an inch long, might be inch and a quarter.