Engine and trany Seals replacement at the same time

[seza]

Hi all,
My 1994 Burban K1500 equipped with GM6.5TD and 4L80E is leaking oil from both front of trany and rear of engine (crankshaft seal),
my questions to you good people:
1. can both be done at the same time?
2. easy to do?
3. other than standard spanners/ratchets, jack and stands - do I need any other special equipment?

... and anything else I should be aware of before I embark on the job?

Many thanks

 

[stutaeng]

Yes, definitely can do both. Once you remove the transmission, the engine rear main seal should be easy to access. The transmission front pump seal is also easy to access after removal, just slide off the torque converter. Might as well replace the torque converter lockup o-ring. Note on re-installation of torque converter to make sure it is installed properly. All of these parts should be relatively inexpensive.

Being a 4x4, the other extra step if removal of the front driveshaft and transfer case, but I'm sure you already had accounted for that. Let us know if you have any other questions.

 

[smdk2500]

I would check your flex plate for cracks while you have it off. Just like the the gas engines they are known for cracking. Next question are you sure that it is the rear main and trans seal? The fuel filter housing is known to leak and when it does the fuel runs down the back of the engine making it look like those seals are leaking.

 

[seza]

First of all - a big thank you to you all guys for your comprehensive replies,
smdk2500, the answer is simple - I am running out of ATF every few hundred miles!
your point about flex plate - yes very true, I had replaced it before many years ago
Stutaeng, you said "Note on re-installation of torque converter to make sure it is installed properly" - what do you mean?

 

[stutaeng]

Make sure the converter is seated properly. Some people claim there's 3 clunks when you slide it in. I like measure across the bell housing with a straightedge to the converter pads. It should measure 1".

A common mistake is to think that converter is installed correctly and it's not. If you do this, you will wipe out your transmission pump. I recently saw a thread on performance truck.net...guy did just that changing his engine rear main seal. His tranmission was damaged after he drove it.

On the subject, the distance from the converter pads to the flex plate should be between 1/8 to 3/16. In you case, it shouldn't really matter because you are not replacing hard parts, unless you also replace the flex plate. Also ensures the converter is installed correctly.

I hope this makes sense. Probably should watch some U-tube videos on the subject.

 

[seza]

Very useful tips, thank you Stutaeng.

 

[smdk2500]

First of all - a big thank you to you all guys for your comprehensive replies,
smdk2500, the answer is simple - I am running out of ATF every few hundred miles!

Ok just making sure. I've read on other forums that people say the have a leak like yours and replace those seals and still have a leak. But if your loosing ATF then you know your looking in the right place.