Dug into my front suspension today. Now I have a steering knuckle question.

[DeCaff2007]

OK well I have a regular cab. Are you saying I have to look for regular cab doner trucks?

 

[454cid]

OK well I have a regular cab. Are you saying I have to look for regular cab doner trucks?

He's telling you which trucks to avoid... the thinner brakes came on the very early trucks, but only on the regular cab. If you find a very early truck, but it's an extended cab it should have the better front brakes. Measure to be sure.

 

[DeCaff2007]

He's telling you which trucks to avoid... the thinner brakes came on the very early trucks, but only on the regular cab. If you find a very early truck, but it's an extended cab it should have the better front brakes. Measure to be sure.

Well mine is an 89 and it's a regular cab. I think that's a pretty damned early model year. So, what's different on the steering knuckle that I need to look for?

 

[DeCaff2007]

Just went out and checked my RPO codes, or, that it, what I can read of them. I don't even see a JB or a JN. Only a J5C. Am I going into hysterics for nothing?

 

[Schurkey]

Measure the thickness of your front rotors. Same diameter--11.57 nominal. Different thickness--1" vs. 1.25" nominal. Minus wear, of course.

Get a new-to-you steering knuckle with the same thickness of rotor, and the same number of lug-studs. The knuckles are the same, the hubs/bearings are different.

Or take the opportunity to upgrade to the thicker, 1.25" rotors if you presently have the 1" ones. I did. Grab the knuckles with hubs/bearings, rotors, calipers, master cylinder and vacuum booster--they are all bigger/better on the 1.25" version.

 

[DeCaff2007]

Measure the thickness of your front rotors. Same diameter--11.57 nominal. Different thickness--1" vs. 1.25" nominal. Minus wear, of course.

Get a new-to-you steering knuckle with the same thickness of rotor, and the same number of lug-studs. The knuckles are the same, the hubs/bearings are different.

Or take the opportunity to upgrade to the thicker, 1.25" rotors if you presently have the 1" ones. I did. Grab the knuckles with hubs/bearings, rotors, calipers, master cylinder and vacuum booster--they are all bigger/better on the 1.25" version.

Now that, I can do. It may be difficult, however, to find a yard truck with the rotor still there. We'll see what happens.

I just went out and measured. I have the 1" rotors . Since the knuckles are the same, I'm not worried about upgrading at this time, although I will keep it in mind for when I'm not racing against the clock.

SO. I had a conversation today with a buddy of mine who's done torsion bar installs a time or two. I thought removal was difficult? HA!! Installation is going to be a MF-ing nightmare. .....which... btw... now that my rubber mounts from Tasca Parts (aka: slowest shipping on planet Earth) are FINALLY here, I can re-install the cross member on my next day off.

EDIT: I'm going to find a way to send Tasca Parts a formal complaint. Better Business Bureau? We can OVERNIGHT all these BS consumer products from GAWD ONLY KNOWS WHERE, but it took a FULL WEEK to ship car parts from THREE STATES AWAY.

 

[Schurkey]

The 1" thick rotors, calipers, master cylinder, and booster (JN3) were the weakest power brakes put on a GMT400 truck.

Strongly recommend upgrading if possible. Extended-cabs, or regular cabs newer than '91--'92, whenever they discontinued the "3" series brakes should be suitable donors.

 

[termite]

Installation is going to be a MF-ing nightmare.

Installing them isn't all that bad. I managed it solo and only had to pull each bar back out once to adjust clocking on the keys. Coated each end and the LCA pockets with wheel bearing grease to help make it easier and combat the rust seizing.

 

[DeCaff2007]

I'm hoping there's some good vids out there on where to even start.

 

[Kens1990K2500]

I'd be interested in seeing that. I was just going to weld on a couple sheet metal plates, and paint it up, to get it through inspection.



Correct. They've never allowed torches, ever. Grinders and sawzalls used to be allowed. Not anymore. I know damn well it's for liability purposes. They claim it's because "customers were cutting front ends apart". IT'S A JUNKYARD..... What did they THINK people were going to do???

The last time I went to a junkyard that still allowed a sawzall, it was nearly an hour drive, and it was the dead EFFING FREEZING cold of winter. I got it, got what I needed, and got the HELL OUT.

Since then, I'm DONE setting myself on fire to keep others warm.

I once saw a guy using a cordless Sawzall cut through both sides of the frame of a GMT400 truck, to liberate the entire front clip of the truck, forward of the cab. I'm not sure what he needed, but it was quite a sight to behold. Sawzall blades have really come a long way. I'm a plumber, and the right Sawzall blade cuts through 4" cast iron drain pipe as if it was butter.