Driveshaft yoke comparison between 4L60E and TH400

[MrPink]

Planned on the strongest u-joints I can, even though I won't be running a ton of power, maybe 450hp N/A.

 

[L31MaxExpress]

88 would likely be a 375 or 3L80 rather than a true TH400. Those have a TH350 or 700r4 sized output shaft.

 

[MrPink]

When I searched for the driveshaft, I specifically put TH400 in the search. So it will be a TH400 Splined Shaft.

 

[Erik the Awful]

I initially bought another yoke, but it was too long. This is the shorter version (I think they actually made like 4 or 5 different output shaft versions, including the RV drum brake set-up for those transmissions?)

Another thing to note, some TH400 output shafts have an o-ring. If so, you need the yoke with the first inch or so smoothed internally to seal the o-ring. You'll know if that's the case when your freshly built driveshaft won't go on more than a couple inches, and then you have to spend $100 more on the correct yoke. I have the "normal" yoke sitting on my shelf.

Denny's was mentioned above, and that's who I bought my yoke from. www.dennysdriveshaft.com/c75_general_motors.html

 

[MrPink]

The RPO's for the 88 Shaft are as follows

L03-5.0L
M40-TH400
GU6-3.42

All which the truck in the JY had. And if I have to replace the yoke, so be it I'll still be in the driveshaft a lot less than what a custom shaft would be.

 

[stutaeng]

Since we are talking transmissions, I was wondering why they say to do burnouts in "2"? The Transgo HD-2 shift kits I believe says the same thing. Not that "I" would be doing any, lol.

I was watching Shawn at YT channel Mountains Garage and he said it's because it can damage the sprag if you are in "D" (forward sprag IIRC?) I highly recommend his channel for learning about these machines.

Also, the TH400 are very economical to beef up for those higher power levels (500-600 HP+), just borrowing some parts from the 4L80e. The 34 element sprag (may also require a matching drum on some models) and the non-pot metal forward hub I think is basically all you need. No expensive Sonnax aftermarket parts!

Of course, with aftermarket stuff they are built to the moon.

 

[MrPink]

There are tons of aftermarket parts for the TH400. Once I blow up the 46k mile Th400 I have, I'll have it built to handle 600hp give or take.

The one thing I can't seem to find is a shifter cable to go from the 95+ column to a TH400 though, so I am going with a Floor shifter from B&M.

 

[Frank Enstein]

There are tons of aftermarket parts for the TH400. Once I blow up the 46k mile Th400 I have, I'll have it built to handle 600hp give or take.

The one thing I can't seem to find is a shifter cable to go from the 95+ column to a TH400 though, so I am going with a Floor shifter from B&M.

The BMM-80842 Pro Ratchet is my go to shifter. I literally recommend it 50:1 over any other shifter. It works on 2, 3, and 4 speed transmissions Forward or Reverse pattern from Ferd, Moped, and Generous Motors alike.
The box is less than 3" wide and less than 9 1/4" tall from the floor to the top of the knob.
To shift you just move the stick. No complicated secret handshake to grab 3rd.
If the stick doesn't move push the red reverse lock out foreword and then it will.
The stick is in the same position no matter what gear you are in so no more punching the radio putting it in park!
When your belts are tight enough to make your eyes bug out you can still put it in park.

In GM transmissions there will be 2 clicks forward from Reverse into Park.

 

[618 Syndicate]

88 would likely be a 375 or 3L80 rather than a true TH400. Those have a TH350 or 700r4 sized output shaft.

375's were made in the 70's, GM had quit using them long before 88. It's a 400 with a 27 spline output shaft.
A 3L80 is a 400, just renamed according to GM's nomenclature change. There's no difference other than the name.

 

[MrPink]

The BMM-80842 Pro Ratchet is my go to shifter. I literally recommend it 50:1 over any other shifter. It works on 2, 3, and 4 speed transmissions Forward or Reverse pattern from Ferd, Moped, and Generous Motors alike.
The box is less than 3" wide and less than 9 1/4" tall from the floor to the top of the knob.
To shift you just move the stick. No complicated secret handshake to grab 3rd.
If the stick doesn't move push the red reverse lock out foreword and then it will.
The stick is in the same position no matter what gear you are in so no more punching the radio putting it in park!
When your belts are tight enough to make your eyes bug out you can still put it in park.

In GM transmissions there will be 2 clicks forward from Reverse into Park.

I have the B&M Star Shifter on my list, granted I would be getting rid of the chrome on the plate, but it has a reverse light switch built in, so it would be easy enough to wire that in.

B&M 80675 B&M Automatic Shifter - StarShifter

The B&M StarShifter is our 3-speed shifter with a split personality of performance, function, and that classic muscle car styling. The first personality is as a straight-line detent shifter, meaning you can move between gears without a positive stop, like an OEM shifter. The racing personality...

www.holley.com

This is the one you're talking about though right? I'd have to sand the cover down and paint it black.

www.holley.com/products/drivetrain/shifters_components_and_accessories/automatic_shifters/pro_ratchet/parts/80843