Cv Axle mounting bolt torque spec?

[elcuarenta]

Vehicle : 1998 gmc k1500 4wd

 

[alpinecrick]

Vehicle : 1998 gmc k1500 4wd

If you’re referring to the 6 bolts of the axle stub flange to CV axle flange—MG325 tight............

 

[Schurkey]

If you’re referring to the 6 bolts of the axle stub flange to CV axle flange—MG325 tight............

Are you insane? An MG325 will put them in and then break the bolt heads off. I have a couple of '325s, one has the half-inch drive output shaft, extra-long, that holds a lug-nut flip socket. The '325s will easily do lug nuts off, and back on, in excess of 125 ft/lbs. The rated "Maximum" torque is...325 ft/lbs. My first full-size 1/2" drive air impact from 1975 or so, probably couldn't do that.

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The six bolts on the drive flange go to 58 ft/lbs, at least according to my '88 service manual. I just torqued my left side about three hours ago. I used anti-seize on the threads, so I reduce the torque by ~20% to account for the loss of thread friction. I spun them in at ~45 ft/lbs.

The big nut on the hub end goes in at 173 ft/lbs, again I use anti-seize and reduce torque by ~20%. I put it in at 140 ft/lbs. Don't forget to clean and lube the seal on the inside of the steering knuckle, verify the seal surface on the CV joint at the hub end, and I grease the splines, too. That way they don't corrode to the hub.

http://hbassociates.us/K1500_Front_End_Torque_Specs.doc

 

[alpinecrick]

Shurkey,
I've had the CV axles out of my 96 K1500 numerous times, out of 97 K1500 once to replace boots. I use a 24" long 1/2" drive extension with adapters on the MG325 and a swivel socket to reach the bolts--it's a lot easier. Obviously with that setup the torque is a lot less. Plus I'm pretty sure those bolts are somewhere in the grade 8 range. Plus the regulator on my compressor is usually set at ~75 psi. The amount of torque is less important than to torque evenly.

I'm a regular anti-seize fiend for the same reasons you are, but I had a friend who had his anti-seize coated bolts on the flanges of his GMT800 back out--he blamed the anti-seize. I still put a TINY amount of anti-seize on mine.

Is your MG325 as stupidly fast as mine? I wish it was a bit slower because it's hard not to keep it from flinging nuts, especially with a swivel socket.

 

[alpinecrick]

Come to think of it, I've had the CV axles off twice on my 01 Sierra too.

My 35 year old Craftsman 1/2" drive torque wrench only goes to 150 lbs, the GM techs at the dealer told me 150lbs was "plenty good" for the spindle nut. And no, I don't use the MG325 on the spindle nut......lol

 

[454cid]

I've always torqued the 6 flange bolts to spec.... I don't recall what it is for my 1-ton. The spindle nut is higher than what my torque wrench is good for, but anti-seize lessons the needed torque. I think last time I just maxed out the wrench and then went a bit further with a breaker bar. I really need to invest in more torque wrenches. I'm a big believer in tightening bolts to spec.

 

[Schurkey]

I use a 24" long 1/2" drive extension with adapters on the MG325 and a swivel socket to reach the bolts--it's a lot easier. Obviously with that setup the torque is a lot less.

Yes, an extension on an impact wrench cuts the torque, the amount depends on the length and the diameter of the extension. In effect, the extension becomes a torsion bar, absorbing the motion of the impact at the drive end.

Plus the regulator on my compressor is usually set at ~75 psi.

That'll drop the torque, too. I run my regulator at 135, so I have 90 at the tool, with the tool running.

The amount of torque is less important than to torque evenly.

I'm not sure I agree. Getting the correct torque automatically assures that they're torqued evenly. Evenly high isn't good, and evenly low is worse.

I'm a regular anti-seize fiend for the same reasons you are, but I had a friend who had his anti-seize coated bolts on the flanges of his GMT800 back out--he blamed the anti-seize. I still put a TINY amount of anti-seize on mine.

Doesn't take much. There's a guy on another forum who has a signature line about painting a house with a can of anti-seize.

Is your MG325 as stupidly fast as mine? I wish it was a bit slower because it's hard not to keep it from flinging nuts, especially with a swivel socket.

Yes, I suppose. Seems to me that any of the 3/8" impacts are faster than the typical 1/2" impacts.

I've always torqued the 6 flange bolts to spec.... I don't recall what it is for my 1-ton.

Same as 1/2 Ton, at least my '88 manual doesn't call out any differences.

The spindle nut is higher than what my torque wrench is good for, but anti-seize lessons the needed torque. I think last time I just maxed out the wrench and then went a bit further with a breaker bar. I really need to invest in more torque wrenches. I'm a big believer in tightening bolts to spec.

Prices on Amazon are too good to pass up. Perhaps Zoro or ToolTopia are competitive. Decent, Made-In-USA 50--250 1/2 drive torque wrenches can be had for $150--160 plus tax.

https://www.amazon.com/Precision-In...ords=1/2"+torque+wrench&qid=1592641866&sr=8-8

https://www.amazon.com/Industrial-C...rds=1/2"+torque+wrench&qid=1592641866&sr=8-32

 

[454cid]

Yes, an extension on an impact wrench cuts the torque, the amount depends on the length and the diameter of the extension. In effect, the extension becomes a torsion bar, absorbing the motion of the impact at the drive end.

I've seen the color coded extensions that tire shops use for that reason, but I never thought of a regular extension limiting torque, but I guess that's reasonable.

Doesn't take much. There's a guy on another forum who has a signature line about painting a house with a can of anti-seize.

Lol, I have a pint can that I've been using for years and years, and I use it on everything but sandwiches

Prices on Amazon are too good to pass up. Perhaps Zoro or ToolTopia are competitive. Decent, Made-In-USA 50--250 1/2 drive torque wrenches can be had for $150--160 plus tax.

https://www.amazon.com/Precision-Instruments-PREC3FR250F-Silver-Torque/dp/B002XMSFIM/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=1/2"+torque+wrench&qid=1592641866&sr=8-8

https://www.amazon.com/Industrial-CDI-2503MFRPH-Adjustable-Micrometer/dp/B000KL4H80/ref=sr_1_32?dchild=1&keywords=1/2"+torque+wrench&qid=1592641866&sr=8-32

Thanks, I'll take a look. For some reason, those links ended up in Spanish.

 

[alpinecrick]

I'm not sure I agree. Getting the correct torque automatically assures that they're torqued evenly. Evenly high isn't good, and evenly low is worse.

Fine Shurkey. You change your fuel filter every 15k-20k and I'll torque my flange bolts to 58 lbs. Then we can both tell China to take a flying leap at a rolling pastry..............

 

[Hipster]

Over torquing= stretched bolts and less clamping force and possible failure. Plus, you can warp flanges, mating surfaces, and castings destroying parts in the process.

Shurkey is on the money saying torque specs should be payed attention too.