Coolant pipe fitting leak downstream from thermostat

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GoToGuy

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Wow, being an Aircraft Mechanic, I get alot of "that's way too OCD or thats overkill man". I understand speed in prodution line assembly. Are not Quick Connect and Quick Dissconnect the same animal?
 

CrustyJunker

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Are not Quick Connect and Quick Dissconnect the same animal?

Think "quick connect," is the proper term in this application if you're searching for an aftermarket replacement. Out of context - probably depends more on who you ask...Could be either way?

Well-worn fittings I could pinch with my fingers and they pull right apart. New ones with some tension and new tabs seem to require help with some pliers.

Silly side note: the even more modern "quick connect," fittings on newer cars seem to be appropriately named. For me, they don't seem to disconnect quickly at all. Maybe if I had fancier removal tools and/or knew the secret trick. Environment doesn't help either!
 

johnnymoto

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I dumped those fittings and threaded normal nipple type fittings there. No issues, or leaks.
The press in fittings on the water pump seeped as well so i removed the pump, pulled the fittings, tapped the holes with 3/8 NPT (if I remember correctly), soldered up some copper fittings to exactly match the old fitting sizes and routing.
This is important as its tight there on a 5.7 vortec. Be sure to solder compression fittings flush with the ends so the hoses cannot be pushed off once the pressure builds. Also be sure to "clock" their position like the originals.

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GoToGuy

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I have never seen copper pipe used this way....I don't know what ...
 

454cid

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Ok, tell us then.

It's in the name.

A quick-connect is designed to be assembled quickly. Manufacturers use them because they want to assemble vehicles as quickly as possible on the line. They are not concerned with a disconnection, as they don't disconnect them once every minute at any particular station.

A quick disconnect is designed to be disconnected as quickly as possible. Think of a the giant switch on the back of faster drag cars.... mounted on the trunk lid. It's designed to be accessible to a track official to disconnect electrical power from the battery in case of an emergency.

A particular design may work in either direction, but it isn't necessarily the case. The switch I mentioned would easily re-connect power very quickly too (I assume, as I've never messed with one) Here's an example of something that doesn't work quickly in reverse..... a lot of electrical connectors in cars. Most of them are designed to easily push together, but then latch in place. Some of them even have an additional latch as a fail-safe for the first latch. I can put them together in a split second, but going the other way I've got to fiddle with it, or even have a tool to pry with. They're designed for connection in mind, not disconnection.

Back to the heater hoses.... I couldn't tell you how fast they come apart. it's been so long since I've had one on a vehicle and I didn't mess with it after making the connection quickly :)
 

GoToGuy

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That's a good start. One small problem. The Master Switch to shutdown electrical power is just a high amperage dc master switch. Located where it can be easily operated. Driver floor. Driver dash panel. Rear deck or trunk lid, underhood next to battery. A manual operated SWITCH. A QD or QC refers to items that were reengineered to save time and labor. Whether being in area difficult to access with tools or that were repetitive in change outs. As in QEC, a Quick Engine Change. All fluid lines have QD fittings, same motion to install or remove. Same with big plug alternator. The Weathertite, Delphi, Packard, Duesch electric connectors some do install easily with a tab that lifts and locks on install. Some also have second lock tab. Those are to ensure they remain connected and stay weather resistant. Thats not QD or QC, it's function is remain connected until some required need to remove, for failure or testing. "Looks like the same but isn't".
 

TagAllen

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A couple years ago I was at a friends house and he dropped a wrench it hit the coupler and that was enough it busted off. Cant believe it was not leaking or blowing off under pressure from the engine.
 

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