Coolant filter?

[Wes-in-MC]

A short time after I bought my truck, the water pump let go. I proceeded to install a new one and made the very rookie mistake of refilling with green coolant. This was 20 years ago btw and then, my truck was the newest thing I have ever owned. Ever since, I've flushed my cooling system every year in the spring but I always had nasty looking "sludge" on my radiator cap when I took it off. So last year, I installed a new AC Delco heater core and also installed a coolant filter because the flushes I was doing didn't seem to last long and I didn't want my new heater core clogged up. The first filter lasted a week. The second filter lasted about a month and now I'm going on 4 months I think with the current filter?? Anyway, this thing works great and my coolant looks fresh out of the jug. The downside is the filters are about $9 on Rockauto but I hope to get to the point to a change every six months. The mounting is not the best and I may fab up some sort of bracket but its good for now. I think I have about $75 in everything and to me, it was well work it! Thanks, Wes!

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[Papablunt]

I've considered one of these since flushing mine and also noticing it gets nasty within a week or so. Good call.

Edit: Did you splice into one of the heater hoses, I assume?

 

[Wes-in-MC]

I've considered one of these since flushing mine and also noticing it gets nasty within a week or so. Good call.

Edit: Did you splice into one of the heater hoses, I assume?

I ran my heater hoses through the filter. That stupid 3/4 quick connect copler on the intake for the heater broke off several years ago. I just installed a 3/4 nipple and hose. Coolant goes through the filter and then through the heater core and back to the radiator.

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[Wes-in-MC]

I ran my heater hoses through the filter. That stupid 3/4 quick connect copler on the intake for the heater broke off several years ago. I just installed a 3/4 nipple and hose. Coolant goes through the filter and then through the heater core and back to the radiator.

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Here is the routing for the filter. 3/4 out of the intake to filter inlet and 3/4 out to my heater core then 5/8 back to the radiator below the cap. No unfiltered coolant goes through the heater core.

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[Schurkey]

1. I (or my team) installed a coolant filter on hundreds of Detroit Diesel, or Cummins engines destined for City Bus service. Most of them had an additive package included in the filter body, that--I guess--dissolved into the coolant over time, like one of those gigantic breath mints they used to put in urinals. All of our coolant filters got installed "upright", to eliminate an air bubble trapped in the filter housing.

2. If your coolant gets flushed, then looks crappy soon after, it's probably because you're not removing the block drain plugs to drain/remove the debris at the bottom of the water jackets.

 

[Wes-in-MC]

1. I (or my team) installed a coolant filter on hundreds of Detroit Diesel, or Cummins engines destined for City Bus service. Most of them had an additive package included in the filter body, that--I guess--dissolved into the coolant over time, like one of those gigantic breath mints they used to put in urinals. All of our coolant filters got installed "upright", to eliminate an air bubble trapped in the filter housing.

2. If your coolant gets flushed, then looks crappy soon after, it's probably because you're not removing the block drain plugs to drain/remove the debris at the bottom of the water jackets.

I did not remove the block drains when I do the coolant flushes. I thought about that when I installed my new radiator and may revisit this very soon. Also, I wanted to mount my filter upright as well but available mounting locations are very limited without some sort of bracket fab'd up. When I first installed this, I thought it was a temporary install. As I posted earlier, I may fab up a bracket to install the filter upright but as now, its lower than the filler neck and I've had no bubbling sounds and no temp increases/fluctuations.

 

[Schurkey]

Run the engine long enough to open the thermostat. Unbolt the filter head from the fender, hold it upright for a minute or so. That should purge any remaining air. Then flip it sideways and bolt it back to the fender. Shut off the engine when you're done.

NOT pulling the drain plugs (right side may be a knock sensor on a small-block) is the biggest mistake I routinely see with engine coolant flushes. There's a gallon of flush-water, plus all sorts of rust/debris trapped in the bottom of the block, half on each side. When it's MY vehicle, I remove the block drain plug(s) and install brass draincocks. 'Course, if the knock sensor is what's plugging the block drain hole, you've gotta seal and torque the knock sensor back in that hole. My Vortec 7.4L has knock sensors on each side, but they're not in the block drain holes. The block drains are the usual iron/steel pipe plugs, 9/16 socket to remove (6-point strongly preferred.)