Condenser/oil cooler

[udidwht]

The AC compressor...

R-134a?

The 2nd pic is an older pic but I can release the Freon at the Schrader valve pictured? The fittings for the AC do they use o-rings or compression fit to seal?

If I cap them what with?

Last (2) are the drier bottle.

 

[udidwht]

And finally the RV...

Take note of the hatch that I'm working through above grill. It comes out and down.

 

[1998_K1500_Sub]

The AC compressor...

R-134a?

Yes, the service ports identify it as R134a.

The 2nd pic is an older pic but I can release the Freon at the Schrader valve pictured?

Yes, or crack a fitting. My choice would be to allow it to bleed slowly from somewhere on the low side, that way it won’t carry much oil with the escaping vapor and make a foggy / oily mess.

FYI that service port in the picture upper right uses a ball valve, and it’s on the high side. The low side service port uses a Schaefer valve.

The fittings for the AC do they use o-rings or compression fit to seal?

O-rings.

If I cap them what with?

I have no idea! I would need to research a solution as I have none. One might simply salvage the mating fittings from the condenser using a tubing cutter, then pinch and braze the pipe just beyond the fitting to form a gas tight seal.


If you’ll never use the AC again, leave it open.

Otherwise, start a new thread with this as the question, maybe someone will tell.

 

[udidwht]

As for the AC low side...not seeing a schrader valve anywhere. Crack open at the drier bottle then?

Just to add...the dash has an AC button when pushed allows for the AC to come on. If pushed to the 'off position' and you select 'defrost' it will turn the AC on even if the AC button is off. Anyway around that? Was thinking of disconnecting the electrical at the compressor.

 

[1998_K1500_Sub]

As for the AC low side...not seeing a schrader valve anywhere. Crack open at the drier bottle then?

There has to be a service fitting on the low-side, somewhere, but...

Loosen a fitting somewhere high-up on the system. The liquid refrigerant will be lying in the lower plumbing of the system, you don't want to start spraying liquid R134 (carrying oil) anywhere and in particular on you. Or if you have a gauge set, hook up to the service port on the high-side (since you know where that service port resides, otherwise use the low-side if you can find it) and then crack the fitting on the hose where it joins the gauge manifold and just let it hissssssssssss... Bleed it down slowly, give it 30 min, there's no hurry, because if you bleed too fast you might wind up with liquid coming out when you're not expecting it.

 

[udidwht]

I'll look for a service port again. The only port I've seen thus far was the one top right.

 

[1998_K1500_Sub]

I'll look for a service port again. The only port I've seen thus far was the one top right.

You will find it.

When bleeding, probably a good idea to wear something to protect your eyes, just in case, and gloves too. The other day I was working on a system and as I loosened a fitting I was surprised to find liquid refrigerant spraying-out. In hindsight I know what happened, but at the time I wasn't expecting it.

 

[udidwht]

Unless I'm blind I can find no other AC valve. Followed all these lines and nothing other than the fitting/s shown. Unless the valve is under the low pressure circuit on drier. If so that requires cracking the schrader valve.

Blue dots are AC lines.

 

[1998_K1500_Sub]

Unless I'm blind I can find no other AC valve. Followed all these lines and nothing other than the fitting/s shown. Unless the valve is under the low pressure circuit on drier. If so that requires cracking the schrader valve.

Blue dots are AC lines.

It's an elusive sucker, isn't it?

Well, do what you can with what you're given.

 

[udidwht]

Update:

The fittings on the OEM lines are either:

1/2in YN of 5/8 YN

The AC drier bottle is 3/4"-16UFN