Like great white said best place to mount an antenna is dead center on top of the cab, mounting it to the bed rails reduces affective Ness because the metal of the cab blocks part of the signal, also if there is any coil in the coax it will cause interference, on a pickup single antenna is better than dual but if you want duals just connect one
Well, yes.....and no.
Mounting close to the cab on the bed rail does "shield" some of the antenna, but far more important is how much of it is above the cab, how the antenna is constructed, how much metal is underneath the antenna and the most important of all is the RF grounding.
"Height makes might" in antennas for sure, but so does the mass underneath it.
An antenna needs a "ground" underneath it. It laymans terms: the body of the vehicle is the second part of the radiating antenna.
The signal will be stronger to where the largest mass of the body is and weaker where there is less. mounting to one side or to the front of back makes the antenna more directional in the plain where the most metal is. That's a bit complicated to grasp from words, so this picture might help understanding:
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This is why I recommended the absolute best location as the top center of the cab roof. Well, more accurately it would be the center rear I guess. You are trying to get the antenna in the exact center of mass.
Another fact most don't realize is that
ALL cb antennas are 102" long. That has to do with the wave length. It has to be 102 in order to pick up 27Mhz.
A 3 foot antenna is a 102 antenna wrapped around a fiberglass core. A Wilson or K40 base load antenna has the 102" coiled up in that big base mount. the shorter the antenna, the closer the wire is coiled, the shorter the wire is coiled, the lower the performance.
Where the coil is placed also makes a difference. For Example: I use a 5 foot Wilson Silverload antenna. It is called a "top load" antenna. Meaning the majority of the coil it near the top of that 5 feet. This means the most compromised part of the 102" is as far up as possible, which somewhat mitigates the compromise of having a coil.
you can have top, center and base loading antennas with associated compromises with each.
RF grounding is also
NOT like DC power grounding. RF grounding is "skin effect". Meaning, the width of the ground is the important factor. That's why copper braid is used for it. Much like the ground that goes to the hood of the vehicle. The hood is grounded this way because it is the large radiating surface nest to the AM/FM radio antenna in the car. The Am in your dash radio is the same principle as the Am in your CB....except in this case we're making the hood an effective part of the receiver and taking any induced noise away with the RF ground.
Radio theory can make you head hurt really quick....