Broken starter boss and an idea... Will it work though?

[blue96]

So, I have a question about an idea I'm having but first, some back ground information:

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My L31 started to have a hard start/misfire condition that turned into no start/kick-back issue and eventually led to the starter boss cracking. Did some researching until it seems my crank position sensor failed.

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Do you think I can drill straight through that "ear" on the block and use some all-thread with a nut + lock/flat washers on top & bottom to hold it? Just wanna see if I can get this beast on it's feet again to collect parts for a LS motor swap.. Any advice or suggestions are welcome!

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[98_k1500]

That may be your only hope, that and brazing a bead of brass around the ear so it won't break the rest of the way off and cause starter alignment issues is probably the best you are going to be able to do. May want to grind the top of that ear flat where it won't be pulling it at an angle.

 

[someotherguy]

I'd try to find some way to incorporate an actual starter bolt into the resulting fix. You want that special shouldered bolt; it helps keep the starter from walking around. You're going to need all the help you can get holding it in place. See the first section of the hole where it's larger and non-threaded? That's where the shoulder on the bolt goes, half of it anyway; the other half makes contact with the starter body.

Richard

 

[SCOTTYINWV]

They make oversized starter bolts so you can drill and Tap for another.

Edit: ouch, just seen the Nasty crack. Time to break the rope pull starter

 

[98_k1500]

I guess my next question is, how high in the boss does the crack go?

 

[blue96]

How high? Id have to look after work to answer that question ..

Thanks for the advice fellas, I now officially have no idea where to go next.

Well, the inboard (and longer) bolt is in perfect shape, wouldn't that be enough to hold the starter in place? I know it's a torquey little , hence the crack.

 

[98_k1500]

If the lip on the boss is just cracked (part thats not threaded), I think you would make it a while like that. If its thru the threads, Brazing it is going to be about your only option. It'll never hold welding it. And no, if 1 bolt would hold it, GM would have saved millions by leaving a bolt and threaded hole out of every smallblock they ever made.

 

[blue96]

Thanks for the input 98!! I meant if went ahead with my redneck fastener along side the remaining oem bolt would it hold for a while. I just need it for a couple of errands around town, not daily driver duty.

 

[blue96]

........

 

[blue96]

I'd try to find some way to incorporate an actual starter bolt into the resulting fix. You want that special shouldered bolt; it helps keep the starter from walking around. You're going to need all the help you can get holding it in place. See the first section of the hole where it's larger and non-threaded? That's where the shoulder on the bolt goes, half of it anyway; the other half makes contact with the starter body.

Richard

I've thought about what you said for a bit and remembered I actually snapped the inboard bolt at first and the bendix gear was destroyed as a result. I replaced the starter and bolts afterwards. It worked well for a few days and it backed itself out and snapped another bolt. Fast forward to today and with some meaningful web searhcing, I discovered the appropriate bolt size is 3/8-16 x 4.33 where I had actually used incorrect length bolts. Seems i shot myself in the f****** foot here but the show must go on. I've ordered the appropriate bolts and with a little luck, and the new crank position sensor, the old girl might run again