Brake problem

[454cid]

I believe "curing binders" went away a long time ago. I've never heard "burn in" or "burnish" used for brakes, it's usually "bedding" that I hear, but it's also usually discs being discussed.

I just did the drums on the rear of my Saturn, and I set them so the cheap drums only dragged part of the way around

 

[thinger2]

Marvelous. I just love that line.

(Me, too.)

Ha! I buy tools that I have no idea what they are for or how to use them.
But, someday I might.
And then I will need that tool.
So, therefore logically. I need to buy the tool.
A couple of months ago, I bought a "Mylar film cutter" at an estate sale.
I have no idea how to use it.
I have no plans that involve cutting any Mylar.
But by god if any Mylar comes around my shop Im a gonna cut the **** out it!
Cuz ya just never know

 

[thinger2]

I believe "curing binders" went away a long time ago. I've never heard "burn in" or "burnish" used for brakes, it's usually "bedding" that I hear, but it's also usually discs being discussed.

I just did the drums on the rear of my Saturn, and I set them so the cheap drums only dragged part of the way around

burn in bedding, burnishing, its all the same thing.
It really depends on how old you are.
And how old the folks you learned from were.
Curing brakes dates back to the 1930s

 

[thinger2]

I'm jealous.

My other problem is I have a serious rifle and handloading problem so it's all a tradeoff and compromise.......

A rifle and handloading problem is not a problem at all.
Thats just smart sense these days.
Dont know where you are but a box of .45 acp ball is 30 bucks in seattle. If you can find it.
The getting place is sold out on 45/70
And we aint got any buffalo

 

[thinger2]

"Burn in"? I'd hate that term, too.

"Burnish" is a fine word for that process.

bur·nished, bur·nish·ing, bur·nish·es
1. To make smooth or glossy by rubbing; polish.
2. To rub with a tool that serves especially to smooth or polish.
3. To improve or make more impressive: achievements that burnished her reputation.​

Burnishing brakes involves using the shoes or pads to "polish" the drums/rotors, the heat created helps to remove manufacturing solvents and to cure binders in the friction material of the shoes/pads. It establishes an "improved" working surface on both the friction material and the mating iron, steel, carbon fiber or whatever the friction surface of the drum/rotor is made of, especially if the drums/rotors have been resurfaced as part of the "brake job".



For the record, every drum-to-shoe gauge (Lower item in the tool photo) I worked with was a (shop-owned, ancient, worn-out) piece of crap. The "points" that set the drum size tended to be worn if not actually bent, and the sizing adjustment was so sloppy as to make precision impossible. I quit using them decades ago. I just go by "feel" when it comes to shoe-to-drum drag. I set the initial "drag" lightly, then step on the brake pedal to align the shoes to the drum as they would be in actual use. Then tighten the adjuster some more. My initial drag may even be heavier than some would permit, because I know that after burnishing, the friction material high-spots are going to be worn away--and it's the high-spots that create most of the initial drag.

 

[thinger2]

Yes, any shop owned tool tends to be a beat up piece of crap.
Thats because they never get calibrated and corrected.
Not the fault of the tool
The fault lies with the shop.
Before I changed careers to become a structural steel project manager, I was an aerospace quality control manager and a certified welding inspector.
I can say with confidence that it is quite possible to use the proper tools on a job as long as they are used and maintained by professionals.
Thats why I mentioned that it is unlikely that the average person has acess to these tools.
The comment was intended to show that you can achieve the same basic result once you understand the concept.

 

[alpinecrick]

A rifle and handloading problem is not a problem at all.
Thats just smart sense these days.
Dont know where you are but a box of .45 acp ball is 30 bucks in seattle. If you can find it.

Because I handload, the only store bought ammo I have to buy is .22 rimfire and I have enough to ward off zombies for the time being. I learned my lesson during the Obama reign, and have enough handloading components to keep me in elk and pronghorn meat for the next couple decades.

 

[thinger2]

Because I handload, the only store bought ammo I have to buy is .22 rimfire and I have enough to ward off zombies for the time being. I learned my lesson during the Obama reign, and have enough handloading components to keep me in elk and pronghorn meat for the next couple decades.

Thats awesome. I live in Seattle and people here are insane anti gun. Up untill now.
Things have changed. Now, they are paying lip service to gun control while they are secretly buying everything they can.
All the guns and all the ammo are sold out across western washington.
A whole crowd of new people who have no idea what they are doing.
And, we gun owners should welcome them with open arms.
Before they shoot somebody because these people are learning gun safety from hollywood movies and youtube.
We are living in interesting times my friend

 

[Supercharged111]

I found the press on drums for my dually super easy to get an initial adjustment on. I'd just spin the drum and because it was one with the hub, it would just spin and spin with no axle in it. I did that as I cranked and cranked on the adjuster until I heard it kissing the drum. . . a coupe times per revolution. Yes, it needs drums. Dammit. But after that the brakes were crap. So I threw it in reverse and did about a dozen stops. I think after the first 6 it was good but I kept going to make sure. The brakes really didn't bed until I loaded the slide in camper and we hit the mountains. After that I could really feel the rears trying to slide me out of my seat.

 

[thinger2]

I found the press on drums for my dually super easy to get an initial adjustment on. I'd just spin the drum and because it was one with the hub, it would just spin and spin with no axle in it. I did that as I cranked and cranked on the adjuster until I heard it kissing the drum. . . a coupe times per revolution. Yes, it needs drums. Dammit. But after that the brakes were crap. So I threw it in reverse and did about a dozen stops. I think after the first 6 it was good but I kept going to make sure. The brakes really didn't bed until I loaded the slide in camper and we hit the mountains. After that I could really feel the rears trying to slide me out of my seat.

Cool! having the drume set up right makes such a huge difference.
It either stops in a straight line or it ass swaps so you can stare down the guy behind you.
And it can make trailer towing real interesting.
Not that ive spun mine... lately..