Brake Pedal Travel

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BOWHNT

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My pedal moves a couple inches before it firms up enough to stop traveling. Is this normal for a '99 K1500? How should the brake pedal act, feel, sound, etc?
 

TheAutumnWind

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It is a very common complaint with these trucks.

New rubber lines or braided stainless and fluid can help.

Quite a few people swap master cylinders to the NBS version.
 

Gibson

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With the disc/drum system that's in our trucks almost all of the initial pedal travel is used-up in pushing-out the pistons in the rear wheel cylinders to force the shoes into full contact with the drums.
Also, realize that zero braking effort can take place until the push rod between the pedal and the master cylinder has moved the rear piston of the master enough to close-off the compensating port.
Once the rear compensating port is closed, then fluid pressure can build-up to start the rear wheel cylinders moving,, and also move the front master cylinder piston forward to close-off its compensating port,, then the front brakes start to see some pressure.
In the old days, the pro brake shops would "arc-grind" the rear shoes, and this would get the rear shoes into faster and full engagement with less pedal travel.
You can get a higher pedal, but it takes a really good rear brake adjustment, with well seated shoes,, and making sure the pedal push rod is right-on, and the linkages are not worn/sloppy/loose.
An NBS master is not a cure-all,,,.
 

BOWHNT

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Thanks. Isn't the NBS MC designed for rear disc?
 
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