Brake hose

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1998_K1500_Sub

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I'm not sure it doesn't specify that on the oreillys website

What did you supposedly buy / were sold? How are they described?

What brake RPO code is on your glovebox sticker? Likely JB5 or JB6.

Recently a member got calipers from NAPA and they were incorrect for his truck.
 
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nicksuspect

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What did you supposedly buy / were sold? How are they described?

What brake RPO code is on your glovebox sticker?
You must be registered for see images attach

They are these-picture attached. I'm only having this issue with the driver and not the passengers. I also noticed when I took the pad off the piston didn't look flush. It looks like the piston is kinda sideways. So side like more out than the other. As if it's kinked
 

nicksuspect

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You must be registered for see images attach

They are these-picture attached. I'm only having this issue with the driver and not the passengers. I also noticed when I took the pad off the piston didn't look flush. It looks like the piston is kinda sideways. So side like more out than the other. As if it's kinked. Says JB6 on my glove box sticker
 

1998_K1500_Sub

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Looks like that p/n is supposed to be suitable…

So you’ve JB6, uses a 3 inch diameter piston, which necks-down a bit so, if you try to measure it, it will come up maybe a 10th of an inch short of 3 inches diameter.

Read that Bendix document I linked earlier. I wonder if the reman companies are diligently rebuilding these calipers.
 

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nicksuspect

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Looks like it’s supposed to be suitable…
Yeah those where the only ones it showed for my truck.The last ones I had where the same ones I just warrantied them. Good thing I caught the drag before I started driving it. I'll try and get a new one today and redo the bleeding process and hope that it fixes it
 

1998_K1500_Sub

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Yeah those where the only ones it showed for my truck.The last ones I had where the same ones I just warrantied them. Good thing I caught the drag before I started driving it. I'll try and get a new one today and redo the bleeding process and hope that it fixes it

Check the diameter of the piston. This guy wasn't so lucky, and he got his calipers at NAPA.

Start at this post and read the downstream posts related to calipers...


until you get to THIS post, later in the same thread:


NAPA sold him calipers with a smaller piston diameter, which were used on RPO JN3 brakes, to use on his K1500 Suburban which came OE with JB6 brakes / 3" piston calipers (same as yours).
 
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nicksuspect

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Check the diameter of the piston. This guy wasn't so lucky, and he got his calipers at NAPA.

Start at this post and read the downstream posts related to calipers...


until you get to THIS post, later in the same thread:


NAPA sold him calipers with a smaller piston diameter, which were used on RPO JN3 brakes, to use on his K1500 Suburban which came OE with JB6 brakes / 3" piston calipers (same as yours).
So upon checking the size of my piston it is 3". Now that I replaced the caliper it still drags. Not as much as the last one but it drags. You can hear it when you free spin the wheel. The passenger side doesn't drag at all. I'm kind of lost at why it's not releasing after replacing the brake lines- master cylinder and rotors and calipers. The not releasing thing is causing the nasty clunk I hear when I release the brake or apply them.
 

1998_K1500_Sub

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So upon checking the size of my piston it is 3". Now that I replaced the caliper it still drags. Not as much as the last one but it drags.

I assume the pins aren't dragging so that the caliper's free to move, and the brake hose isn't acting like a check valve so that the piston's free to move, and the rotor's run-out is w/in spec at <.002 so that you're not wrestling with a high-spot.

One question I always harbor about the "low-drag" calipers is "Were they rebuilt correctly so that the 'low-drag' feature actually works as designed?"

If one or both "low-drag" calipers don't retract as they should, and assuming they're being used with a quick-take-up MC (which would by the right thing to do under normal circumstances), the resulting braking system operation is non-ideal. See https://www.gmt400.com/threads/gm-low-drag-calipers-a-discussion-on-jalopyjournal-com.60055/
 
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nicksuspect

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I assume the pins aren't dragging so that the caliper's free to move, and the brake hose isn't acting like a check valve so that the piston's free to move, and the rotor's run-out is w/in spec at <.002 so that you're not wrestling with a high-spot.

One question I always harbor about the "low-drag" calipers is "Were they rebuilt correctly so that the 'low-drag' feature actually works as designed?"

If one or both "low-drag" calipers don't retract as they should, and assuming they're being used with a quick-take-up MC (which would by the right thing to do under normal circumstances), the braking system operation is non-ideal. See https://www.gmt400.com/threads/gm-low-drag-calipers-a-discussion-on-jalopyjournal-com.60055/
I actually doubt checked that today and the pins are free to move unlike the last caliper.. I honestly don't know if it was rebuilt right because I just get them warrantied. My Master cylinder isn't like that one in the video though. It isn't even hydraulic it's vacuum. If the system was compromised wouldn't it cause the passenger side also to drag seeing is there both controlled by the same line? I mean unless the master cylinder isn't good. But I made sure before the install that it had no air per instructions. Bench bled it.
 
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