bleeding slave cylinder

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LOWnEASY

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Tryed gravity bleed, revers bleed and traditional pump the clutch and i got it to brake the staps on the new slave cylinder but its not enuff to disengage the clutch.
Master cylinder was good when I parked it for my motor swap and my slave had a small crack were the line whent in so I replaced and now it won't bleed.
 

LOWnEASY

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Got my master cylinder hanging from the hood were the line flows straight were no air pockets can stay. Going to leave it like that over night and try it. If that's not it then I'm guessing something happened with the throwout bearing. Any other ideas?
 

LOWnEASY

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After two big bottles of brake fluid, I peaked through the pep hole were the slave goes and it looks like a few of the fingers on the pressure plate are bent, so I'm going to put a new clutch set in and see were that gets me. If not then I'm lost!
 

K15 Blazer

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try opening the bleed screw and compressing the slave cylinder. some times there is a bubble in there than cant be pressed out just by extending the rod...

so you have a hose and a jar of DOT3... you stick the hose in the jar, pump the clutch slowly and crack the bleeder until no air is pushed out.
then, with the hose still in the jar and no pressure from the master/pedal open the bleeder and push the slave cylinder/rod all the way in until all bubbles flow out

let me know if that works. ive seen it done, but I will need to do my own clutch soon as well.
 

LOWnEASY

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I got it fixed! I put a small washer on the pivot point on the throwout bearing fork to give a little more throw, Worked like a charm.
 

K15 Blazer

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nice!
yeah I think im going to fabricate an adjustable fork/slave cly rod when I do replace mine... it bugs me that NOTHING adjusts in these setups...
 

sewlow

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I got it fixed! I put a small washer on the pivot point on the throwout bearing fork to give a little more throw, Worked like a charm.

How badly are those fingers on the PP bent? I can see how those would affect the throw, & why the washer compensates for that, but I'm wondering how this fix would affect a clutch with normal fingers.
The clutch in my truck would be so much better if it released closer to the top of the throw, but, don't know if this would allow the pedal to come back up far enough so that the throwout bearing would not be constantly in contact with the fingers of the PP. The freeplay at the top of the pedal would normally ensure that this doesn't happen.

nice!
yeah I think im going to fabricate an adjustable fork/slave cly rod when I do replace mine... it bugs me that NOTHING adjusts in these setups...

I would love to see this mod! Please post pix when you get around to doing it!
I have a hard time liking this design too. Call me an old fart, old school dinosaur, but to me, a non-adjustable clutch system just does not make sense. Yea, yea, I know that the hydraulics are supposed to automatically compensate for the wear of the disc, but to my way of thinking, that's a passive way of relying on a system that contains sacrificial parts.
Besides, I hate the feel of a hydro-clutch system. Feels like it belongs on a cheap low-level entry import.
Give me a mechanical linkage system anyday. At least I can fix/modify it to my taste as I require!
 

K15 Blazer

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my plan for the mod is to take the OLD slave cly rod and thread it.
then cut it in half.
then add in a "long nut"
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with extra nuts to lock it in place (bare with me)
to make it telescope and lock as i see fit...
the new slave cly rod would be a back up. if i screw it up

i heard you can "shim" the throw out bearing slave to "adjust it" by using washers... but... that is a super involved process lol
 
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