Bagged and bodied 99 c3500 build

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Onizukachan

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Agreed, but there's a big difference between lowered and bagged in terms of suspension layout. I've had and have a bunch of lowered stuff, but this is my first bagged truck.
As I understand it, a 3 or 4 link will move the axle right or left as it travels up and down, but a 2 link doesn't.
except for triangulated 4 link, or pseudo triangulated 3 link none prevent side to side deflection. That’s why the factory c10 2 link had a pan hard bar.


the benefit of watts link is that the side to side motion is a very very small (like 1/8”) figure 8. panhards push to one side at low, and pull to the other at high, and if clearances are tight, will result in rubbing of the tire to fender, or if set not to rub at full low, will pull the axle way over at high.

my personal preference is a parallel 4 link with watts, or triangulated 4 link.
if keeping factory gas tank location on gmt400 platform there is no room for a triangulated 4, so I’d choose parallel 4 and watts if I had my druthers.
hope that helps.

sorry I have not been around recently To keep up with this. Was on vacation out of state visiting family and looking at neighboorhoods in Hattiesburg MS, and San Antonio TX for 2 years from now When son graduates.

and also working on my sons r53 John Cooper Works Mini Cooper (actually bought a running driving r53 S cheap as engine/suspension donor and have been driving it around to make sure it is good)
 

Erik the Awful

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the benefit of watts link is that the side to side motion is a very very small (like 1/8”) figure 8. panhards push to one side at low, and pull to the other at high, and if clearances are tight, will result in rubbing of the tire to fender, or if set not to rub at full low, will pull the axle way over at high.
I'm a three-link and panhard bar fan.

In my opinion the side-to-side movement with a panhard bar is overrated. I lowered my Mustang 1.5" and stuck with the stock fixed panhard bar until I could buy an adjustable bar. My axle was less than 1/4" deflected. Unless you're a pro driver you're not likely to notice the deflection during cornering.

Watts links are heavy, and the firmer the bushings you use, the more binding their figure-8 motion causes. My RX-7 had a four-link with a Watts, and it wasn't good. The recommended fix that all the IT-7 racers used was to go three-link and panhard.
 

ROYALTYFORGE

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New rear crossmember is in, cycled through the suspension travel and doesn't seem to bind anywhere so I got that all welded off.
Next up is boxing in the frame rails between the notch and rear crossmember then I can start figuring out my cantilever arms and bag placement.
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ROYALTYFORGE

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Rear bag mounting plates are made.
I'll be adding gussets once I figure out exactly where everything else will land.
I think the space below the frame here is where I'll hang the two air tanks, I haven't fully decided yet.
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