After market injectors? Lt1

[josh]

Anyone know any after market injecters for a 97 vortec lt1 5.7.
and any other performance upgrades for this , got a k&n cai and exhaust and programmer, but i want more
Suggestions?plz and thanks

 

[bluex]

Is it an LT1 from an f/b body or a vortec in a truck. It can't be both.

I'm going to assume it's a truck since your here an not an f body site.

There really are not any other injectors for the vortec motor except the poppet style or the upgraded mpi ones, but there is no performance advantage between the two. You can switch to a marine intake if you have about $2-3k an then you have a lot of options for injectors.

If all you have is a CAI, exhaust an tune then there is no reason for upgraded injectors anyway....


For other mods, try headers, an ht383 cam, an if you have a generic handheld programmer step up to a better tune from Mje performance or black bear....

 

[RHamill]

The CAI isnt doing anything for you, don't even consider a TB spacer either, just mentioning that in case you were wondering, its useless on the vortec trucks along with aftermarket CAI's. Id stick with headers, black bear tune on an 0411, clean throttle body, do air injection service to clean your injectors, some sort of aftermarket mufflers with duals, throw whatever lousy aftermaket plugs you have in there away and get Delcos, get high temp quality silicone wires, new cap/rotor, K&N air filter in the factory box.

 

[SAATR]

Anyone know any after market injecters for a 97 vortec lt1 5.7.
and any other performance upgrades for this , got a k&n cai and exhaust and programmer, but i want more
Suggestions?plz and thanks

More is such a subjective word . From your current mods, I'm going to guess that you're doing this on a budget, so big ticket items like crate motors and superchargers are out. I'm guessing by "exhaust" you mean either an aftermarket muffler (or mufflers) and dual pipes going out the back. I would consider going a step further to "full exhaust" and including a set of long tube headers (1 5/8" primaries, 2 1/2" to 3" collectors) with a 2 1/4" exhaust run out to some high flow cats (or not, your call) to a crossover and some good performance mufflers (not parts story glass packs). Mandrel bent would be best, but it isn't going to make a huge difference. Next up I would consider deleting your clutch fan and replacing it with an Efan. There's a sticky about using Lincoln MarkVIII fans with a few ancillary items to make a nice, seamless system above, but that knowledge can also be transferred to other kinds of electric fans with similar results. Just remember, airflow is everything. This will help cut down on the rotating mass of the accessory drive system, and may, MAY gain you a couple of ponies and possibly some fuel mileage. It will definitely help warm up on cold mornings though, so if you live in the frigid north then it may be a good call. Beyond that, a nice cam would be a good investment to liven things up. Howard's Cams makes some good grinds at reasonable prices, and you would likely find something that would be right up your alley. Try to select a grind that will have power all in by around 5500 RPM, as the stock PCM's on these have a hard RPM limit of 5800. To bypass that and make tuning easier, you may consider an 0411 swap. That is, swapping a GM part number 12200411 PCM into the truck in place of your factory PCM. These came on many of the early 2000's GM cars and trucks, and are used because they can be easily flashed with a tune that will run our Vortec motors. This will remove the hard RPM limit and give you many more tuning options, as well as datalogging and the use of AutoCal's. These all make a tuner's job much easier if you have a non standard setup. The last things I will mention are a higher stall torque converter (herein referred to as a stall) and a lower (numerically higher) ring and pinion gear set (herein referred to as gears). In all honesty, these two items will take a stock truck and make it come alive. They aren't necessarily cheap (especially if you have a 4x4) but will next big gains in seat of the pants feel, acceleration, and overall peppiness of the truck. A proper stall in the 2600 to 2800 RPM range can feel like a stock converter when you drive normally, and then flash into the powerband when you nail it. This helps retain in town fuel economy if driven conservatively. Highway isn't affected as the converter will still retain its lockup function. The gears will likely decrease your highway fuel economy, but can (in some cases) help in town mileage due to increased torque multiplication and decreased load on the motor. With a 28" tire you're looking at about a 600 to 700 rpm jump, at speed, when switching from 3.42's to 4.11's. Now you WILL see that on your fuel bills, but if you don't do a lot of highway driving, it won't matter. The difference in acceleration and perceived power will be huge, and you'll be able to "hang" better at the stoplight grand prix. That oughta get you started!