Adjustable proportioning valve for ABS Delete

[thegawd]

that makes sense too. I bet there is more than one reason. that looks great man. flaring stainless must have been fun!

 

[LoCascio_Inc]

Flairing stainless hardline for first time ever with the OTC flair kit I bought was a complete failure... Every line leaked. There is definitely a learning curve to it.

 

[LoCascio_Inc]

OP, would you mind posting a couple pictures of your brake setup and what part number valve you used? I’m in the middle of doing an ABS delete on my 95 2500 and am just curious how you did yours. I value function over form on things like this, but I don’t want it looking like the factory yarn ball of ABS crap either.

I don’t remember the part number off hand but it was just a basic black Wilwood proportioning valve. I also used a Wilwood 10lb residual valve on the line to the rear axle.

 

[Chillin Dylan]

I totally brain farted today when I started looking up proportioning valve stuff. I forgot that I’m swapping in a disc brake 11.5 AAM right now too so I don’t need a proportioning valve. Your setup looks great though man! I spy a NV4500! Did you truck come with it or are you swapping? I have 2 454 NV4500 4x4 trucks. Ones a 95 the others a 97. The 97 is the parts truck for my rust free 95


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[LoCascio_Inc]

I totally brain farted today when I started looking up proportioning valve stuff. I forgot that I’m swapping in a disc brake 11.5 AAM right now too so I don’t need a proportioning valve. Your setup looks great though man! I spy a NV4500! Did you truck come with it or are you swapping? I have 2 454 NV4500 4x4 trucks. Ones a 95 the others a 97. The 97 is the parts truck for my rust free 95


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Thanks man. My truck was originally a 5.7 auto but that pic is from the middle of my Cummins/NV4500/NP205 swap. All the details about that can be seen here:
https://www.4btswaps.com/threads/cr...-swapping-a-gmt400-k2500.109723/#post-1073125

 

[Chillin Dylan]

Thanks man. My truck was originally a 5.7 auto but that pic is from the middle of my Cummins/NV4500/NP205 swap. All the details about that can be seen here:
https://www.4btswaps.com/threads/cr...-swapping-a-gmt400-k2500.109723/#post-1073125

Nice! I thought about Cummins swapping at one point but I really like big blocks. They’re just cool. I’m putting the Gen VI 6k mile crate motor from the 97 into my 95 with a comp cams XE288HR, a weiand stealth dual plane, holley hyper spark dizzy, and Holley sniper TBI. That should net me about 450hp and 500lb-ft which is honestly plenty enough for the towing that I do.


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[Schurkey]

What size was the original brake tube to the rear brakes?

First Guess: 1/4".

Using 3/16 hose is probably a mistake.

What is the bend radius spec for that hose? The hose connected to the booster-end port on the master cylinder look like it's bent too tightly.





Overall, removing ABS is almost always a mistake.

 

[Frank Enstein]

The loops are engineered for a reason but it’s not for cooling. It is to accommodate the body of the truck flexing independently from the chassis.

I went with braided lines after failing to properly flair stainless hard lines...

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That line going up and over looks like a great place to hide an air bubble. I always recommend the copper /nickel line. The braided lines should only be used where the rubber ones used to be. Maybe drop the prop valve down so the line can drop temporally and re-bleed.

The problem may be in the front caliper slides. If the caliper doesn't slide freely it can lead to a hard pedal and the fronts not working well. Pop the calipers off and remove the pads. Bolt the calipers back on and see if you can slide them in and out with one finger (you may have to push FIRMLY). If not fix the caliper slides.

 

[Frank Enstein]

After the ABS sent the pedal to the floor on my 94 Suburban in the summer and I rolled through the stop sign at the bottom of the offramp the ABS went missing. I may or may not have put a 1975 Camaro proportioning valve in it on the advice of a major brake manufacturer but I can neither confirm or deny that I recommend the same for you.

But that truck would throw you out on the hood after!

 

[LoCascio_Inc]

What size was the original brake tube to the rear brakes?

First Guess: 1/4".

Using 3/16 hose is probably a mistake.


What is the bend radius spec for that hose? The hose connected to the booster-end port on the master cylinder look like it's bent too tightly.





Overall, removing ABS is almost always a mistake.

Are you suggesting that the 3/16 braided line to the 1/4 rear hardline is what is causing the rears to lock up? Seems like that would be restrict flow and if anything, weaken brake pressure to the rear.

I’m positive the radii on the braided line bends are fine. That’s just perspective from the photo.