98 k1500 Slop in shifter handle

[ChrsLytn]

I had my 4L60 replaced, got the installer to replace the main shift cable. The original cable clip had broke at the transmission. I had zip ties on it.
The slop was in the movement of the shifter handle before transmission and cable were replaced. I figured that the original cable with 352 K on it was probably the problem.
But it wasn't. I replaced the shift mechanism with a Dorman aftermarket from Napa. Most reviews said it worked fine. I've tried doing the adjustment of the main cable like the FSM instructs- P to 1st ten times and then lock the cable in- but it will only take the "pointer" to 3rd gear. I can go under the truck and manually move it on down through 2nd into first , go back up and the shifter will drop down into first. But going back to park and then shifting to OD again I have to pull the shifter back a hair from the normal park to OD locked position for it go into OD and then push it back up through the slop so it is in the normal OD position. And it returns to not moving below 3rd again.
If I put it in reverse there's about an inch of slop, pull it down to neutral there's inch of slop.
I've got a friend who retired from transmission service who said he always put transmission and shifter in neutral and locked in the cable at the transmission. That didn't work either. He said he would look at it for me . I'm gonna try to get by and see him this week.
Another buddy said it might be something worn in the steering column itself.
I went ahead and replaced the brake to shift solenoid cable. It has a small amount of adjustment but nothing to help the slop.
But right now with key off I can shift out of park without applying brake. If I turn the key to run position the shifter is locked as it should be.
So there's definitely some Steve Miller band "Funky Sh*t Going Down in the City" stuff going down in my truck.
If somebody sees these symptoms and knows what's happening I'm all ears.
Many thanks and Merry Christmas

 

[east302]

When you adjusted the cable, did you push the white clip out at the connection to the transmission? With it out, it can be hard to get to the lower gears but cycle it anyways. Then put in park and push that white clip back in. You should then be able to get to the lower gears. Some cables come with a throwaway shipping tab that keeps both the clip out and the black slide piece in the open position.

If you’ve done all that, I’d be tempted to get a junkyard shift assembly and try that.

 

[ChrsLytn]

Yeah, I had the clip pushed out. You mean the shift mechanism on the steering column when you said shift assy from junkyard don't you? I've considered that too. Dorman has the complete assy. I think from dealer it comes or came in three pieces. A lady I talked to the other day when I called the Chevrolet dealership said it had been discontinued. But it took her a couple of minutes to figure out the part or parts I needed. I didn't ask her to let me talk to one of the guys I usually talk to. No offense any ladies who might read this. So I still don't know for sure if she was looking at the right part. But I'm taking it tomorrow to my retired transmission guy and see what he thinks it could be.
I've heard of the steering columns causing problems but I haven't found anything yet in a thread.

 

[east302]

Yes, part #40 below (GM part 26091246). My opinion of Dorman is really low, so it was the first thing that came to mind when I read your post.

When you said it would go into 1st when manually selected at the transmission but on the next try just stop at 3rd, that sounded like the white clip was not pushed back in. Maybe your transmission guy will spot something.

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[ChrsLytn]

Thanks for the parts list. The white clip is pushed in all the way. That's the only way the black outside clip will go back over the white one.
I'll call Thornton Chevrolet and see if an OEM shift mechanism is still available. I don't think she was looking at the right parts picture.

 

[ChrsLytn]

Jimmy , the retired old fart said he thinks the Dorman POS shift mechanism is where the slop is and the new shift cable is likely to have been forced some when installing it. He said he always connected it up top in the cab and then when you're snapping the cable onto the ball at the side of the transmission you move the gear changer to line up with cable. Folks will try to move the sheath part of the cable and it breaks the plastic. Cable has enough connection to move the gear changer but it doesn't have the full range of movement.
So I've got an OEM shift mechanism and shift cable coming tomorrow. I'll take the two turd pieces back to Napa. Shift mechanism is about 190, shift cable is probably 100-150.
I always like it when more money is required.

 

[SUBURBAN5]

GM GENUINE 15037353

I know it's pretty pricey but I would of bought gm part. Especially since it's still available still. These parts are being discontinued by the month it seems. I'm not sure how dorman compares in length, but I would of made sure it's exactly to oem. I had a adjustment issue one time. Mine would go to park and down to 2nd gear. You would have to force it to first. Finally I did the adjustment per gm manual, and no luck. I ended up shifting the column down to 2 and manually go underneath the truck, and pull the level to 1st gear.... then I locked it, and jumped up in the truck, and shifted back to park....Now it works park to 1st like it's supposed to..

Now if you can shift without pressing the brake then you have a broken shift linkage or popped off. You can see it and push it back on...
As far as play goes. Mine has 572k miles and the shifter has some up and down play in park, but not much. In neutral it's more tight. You can easily shift up or down and it locks.

 

[someotherguy]

Now if you can shift without pressing the brake then you have a broken shift linkage or popped off. You can see it and push it back on...

If you can shift without pressing the brake, the BTSI (brake-to-shift-interlock) is what you're concerned with. It's the secondary item attached to the shift linkage near where the cable attaches (usually black plastic rod with a solenoid on it.) They go bad, prevent people from shifting out of park, so they yank on the shifter until the shift mechanism breaks. You can work around a failed BTSI temporarily by shifting to neutral with the key off but in unlocked position, foot on the brake, then start the truck. Long-term, simply unhook it from the shift linkage. Or replace it, if you care about the functionality.

Richard

 

[ChrsLytn]

OEM parts are the way to go. I replaced the shift mechanism and the shifter cable and the movement is crisp and no slop. And the brake to shift is working correctly.
Now I need to figure out how to see a deer with the wind blowing. They tend to avoid us after three months of being hunted. I think I'll go to the backside with my metal detector and poke around.
Thanks for the advice.

 

[RacerM95]

Maybe look at a floor shift conversion ? B&M has a Truck Only Mega Shifter. I have a TCI Fastgate for my 95