97 K1500 DD/Overlander

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mdnky

DOH!
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Baton Rouge, LA | Union, KY
03.05.2024

I noticed the wiper arms were a bit worn looking yesterday...so I took a few minutes to remove them, sand them, and throw a few coats of satin black on them. Far from perfect, but way better than before. It'll probably fade in a few years, but for now it looks 1000x times better. Added bonus...I had everything on hand, so the price was right [$0.00].

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Been driving it a bit during the past few weeks, seems to run ok for now. The shocks are definitely shot and need replaced. The fronts are the OEM Bilsteins from 1997, while the rears are some really cheap blue (Monroe-matic?) aftermarket and completely blown. Pretty sure the fronts have leaked out, but somehow they still work better than the rears (compression wise).

Normally I'd put some Bilsteins on, but I'm not looking to put that kind of money into it at the moment, and just anything will be better than what's there now. So I ordered some ProComp ProX (formerly ES9000) twin tubes {908501B front | 927503B rear}. They were the cheapest semi-decent brand I could find [$97.20]. If I decide to keep it, then I'll replace them in a year or two when I do the suspension mods. Otherwise, being able to say 'new shocks' should make for good copy in the sales ad.

I have a gallon of FluidFilm Black [$55.01] and an undercoating gun on hand, so I'll probably hit the frame and suspension when the rain disappears later this week. Might do the old '88 C1500 as well, while I have everything out. Most of the Ziebart undercoating the original owner put on that one has finally started to wear away.

Before I do that, I need to decide if I'm going to order the frame reinforcement and RR cab mount, or try to make them myself. I also need to decide on doing the front steering components. It definitely needs an alignment, but in order to do that pretty much everything up front will most likely need replaced (tie rods, ball joints, etc.). The RF ABS sensor wire is also damaged, causing codes, and needs replaced. It's tempting to just order a kit with new wheel hubs. The cheap TRQ kits are ~ $280, while ordering similar stuff from RockAuto in a better brand (Mevotech Supreme/TTX) would be ~$350. Leaning towards the latter.

Tomorrow it goes back to the local exhaust shop to have a few minor repairs done. They left one or two of the hangers loose when they replaced those flanges a few weeks ago, so there's a minor (annoying) rattle every so often. Also, the O2 sensor (bank 2, sensor 1) needs replaced. Ordered the part a month ago and tried to get it out, but it's stuck pretty good. I don't have access to a good torch at the moment, nor can I get any kind of decent torque on it laying on my back in the driveway.It was also too darn cold to be laying on the ground fighting it, so I put it on the back burner. They quoted $40 to $50 labour to swap it, which is fine with me (and my back).


RUNNING TOTAL: $5828.36
 

mdnky

DOH!
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03.07.2024

Had the local exhaust shop replace the seized O2 sensor (bank 2, sensor 1) [$50.50], as well as reconnect the hanger in front of the muffler that was missed the last time. Didn't take long...it's nice being able to stand under the truck and get some proper leverage on a bolt. The oxy-acetylene torch also came in handy. No more CEL for now and the mild miss while idling seems to be gone. Now I just need to get rid of the ABS light.

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The vibration noise I was hearing was the heat shield on the top of the muffler. One of the straps had failed, letting it rattle around. They didn't have one big enough to fix it, so I elected to just remove it for now. There really isn't anything in the immediate area that would be affected, and every aftermarket system get rids of it. I may or may not replace it in the future.

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RUNNING TOTAL: $5878.86
 

mdnky

DOH!
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3.11.2024

Started to install the shocks today, but only managed to get the front done. The plan was to swap the barpin from the old rear shocks to the new, but that proved to be more trouble than it was worth. Unlike Bilsteins, the cheap Monroes have the a pin which is fused to the bushing.

Getting the pin out would be very difficult. Trying to get that pin into the new shock, without destroying its bushing, would be near impossible.

So time for Plan B...I fell back to my comfort area (Jeeps) and ordered a (cheap) set of bar pin eliminators [$26.55]. The holes should line up fairly well, but I can always add some additional support and weld them in if need be. Should be significantly easier to make everything work.

Fronts went on with no issues...not counting the hassle of dealing with very rusty bolts. The old factory Bilsteins still had a decent amount of resistance in them, but it's a miracle they haven't exploded yet due to all the rest on their bodies. There the wheels back on with a light torquing, as everything will be coming off later this week and I don't need to use it. Took the time to hit the upper control arms, tie rods, hubs, and sway bar hardware with some old Kroil. Parts have been ordered from Rock Auto, Summit, and Amazon to do a decent rebuild on the front steering system and some other repairs.


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RUNNING TOTAL: $5905.41
 
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mdnky

DOH!
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3.11.2024 (cont...cont...)

Summit had a great deal on the Rustbuster midsection reinforcement...the one I actually need for the passengers side. $159.99 vs the normal price of $299.99 (which the drivers side is currently priced at). So I ordered it, plus some other parts bringing the total to just over $200. A few gussets, some grounding straps (I know at least one is broken ATM), and the heater hose for my father's C1500 (two times the amount for 1/3 price vs. locally sourcing it). I also grabbed a large chassis tab, which I'll use to rebuild the rear cab mount that's basically rusted through. So, I can add roughly [$203.57] toward this project's running total. Even snuck that K&N filter sticker for the Jeep onto the order...o_O

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I ordered one of the upper control arms (passenger side) from Amazon [$21.30], as the price was just too good to pass up. Ordered the rest of the suspension/steering stuff from Rock Auto. The really important stuff is Mevotec Supreme line (greasable), while the lesser stuff is their OE grade stuff. Should be significantly better than the current stuff, and more importantly I'll be able to align it afterwards. Also picked up both front hubs (ABS sensor issue), sway bar links and bushings, and a spare oil filter and drain plug gasket. More for the running total [$313.57]...joy!
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RUNNING TOTAL: $6443.85
 
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mdnky

DOH!
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03.13.2024

While I'm waiting on those parts from Summit and RockAuto, I can get some little things done. I didn't finish the rewiring of the brake controller last year, so it's a good time to try and remedy that.

When I replaced the battery earlier this year, I swapped the side post only BCI-78 for a BCI-34/78 with side and top posts. The plan is to keep the main vehicle connections on the side posts, while all add-ons connected to the battery go to the top posts. Should make it easier to connect/disconnect things, without having to mess with the lack of room (air box) or those evil side post mounts.

It ended up being a few dollars cheaper to buy a 3-pack of steel replacement terminals [$5.93] vs. buying just a pair. Must be that new 'modern math' or something. Well, at least I'll have a few spares.

The 12ga O'Reilly wire I used is a bit anemic, so it required a bit of fiddling with to get a good fit. I located a 3/8" x 10-12 insulated ring terminal in the parts bin and promptly cut the shrink insulation off. I stripped the wire back to twice the normal needed length, doubled half of it back and cut off the other half. I crimped on the connector, shrunk a few pieces of shrink tubing, et voilà...a somewhat clean looking finished product. I might have let things get a bit too warm where the last piece of shrink tube ends at the loom, but it didn't melt completely...so...we'll just forget about that.

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Right at the end of all this FedEX showed up with the stuff from RockAuto, then as she pulled out Amazon arrived with a few more items. It took a few minutes to move everything inside and check it all out.

I ended up installing the positive cable end as well. Figure this way I won't misplace it, plus it kind of covers the uncovered post (NAPA tested the battery with the top posts and didn't put the caps back).

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The only thing left to do is to connect the black wire (power) for the brake controller at the auxiliary post on the underwood fuse block. While probably not needed, I'm still going to put an inline fuse there just to be overly safe. I actually ordered two last year just for this, but they're in my parts bin in Louisiana. So I ordered another one from Amazon [$9.91] and some 20a ATC fuses [$2.33].

The bar pin eliminators I ordered were a bit too narrow to work, and would probably cause a minor length issue. They were also made from some very questionable material...maybe 16ga, and that's being generous. I'm going to return them [-$26.55] and wait for my order from Summit to arrive.

One of the items I 'padded' that order with was four chassis tabs...0.188" thick with 1/2 in holes. I initially planned to use these for some light mounts, but they'lll work perfectly as shock mounts. I need to pull the bed to weld in the chassis support, so adding those to the shock mounts will be very easy. Worst case, I'll send the rears back and order a shock with the bar pins.



RUNNING TOTAL: $6435.47
 
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mdnky

DOH!
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03.16.2024

Threw the inline fuse holder with a 20amp ATC fuse onto the trailer brake controller power wire, then attached it to AuxB on the fuse block. I used black shrink tubing to cover/hide the red wires... cosmetic, but worthwhile. The brake controller now functions...not that I'll need it anytime soon.

For some reason, I thought those auxiliary posts were switched power. Not too sure I want either item (brake controller, trailer 12v supply) on a non-switched power supply. Sounds like a recipe for a dead battery. Might look into throwing a relay in there, or maybe moving those to a new small add-on fuse block that's switched power. Until then, I'll just remove the 30amp maxi-fuses supplying Aux A & B and leave them in the glove box. It's quick and easy to install them, should I need to tow anything. I'll probably just use VHB tape to stick the holder to the fuse cover or the ABS module for now to tidy things up.

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All the parts are in for the from suspension/steering...just waiting on the weather to cooperate. I also need to figure out if I'm going to buy another 8ga extension cable, or just rent a 230V capable generator for the day. I definitely don't want to try welding that chassis prace in using that 120V/20amp circuit (on a 40' extension). I'll need at least 60' (80' would be better) to make it to the house's dryer outlet. Briefly thought about running a new outlet into the garage, however the service panel is in the basement on the opposite side of the house. I'd need roughly 135' to 150' of 6/3 nome to do it...after seeing the ridiculously high price of that cable ($400 for 125'), it's a hard pass for now.
 

mdnky

DOH!
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03.17.2024

SO...I started on the from steering and suspension replacement this morning. It actually went surprisingly well...for the first half hour or so, then quickly went downhill from there. Suffice to say, she's sitting on those jack stands for a few days (at least). I'm waiting on some more parts now, still need to find a few others, and to top it off the weather is going to suck for the next few days.

Still need to figure out if this is from a current or previous leak. Haven't lost any coolant in the last month or two, so I'm leaning towards the latter. Guess I'll have to clean those skids and splash pans and keep an eye on them.


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mdnky

DOH!
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03.17.2024 (cont...)

So, started by removing the tie rod ends. The other came right off with the lightest tap of the BFH. The inners came away relatively easily, with just one or two raps on the back of a pickle fork. Disco'd the speed sensor wires from the frame and UCAs as well, which went without any drama. Even the axle nuts came off relatively easily. This of course got my hopes up for a quick and relatively simple day of work...yeah....Murphy and his $%^& laws.

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Soaked the hub bolts front and back in some older Kroil like penetrant that we had on hand. Then decided to let them sit a bit while I took a trip to AutoZone to pickup the loaner tools (ball joint press, master adapter kit). Also decided to pickup two more cans of brake clean and a can of PB Blaster.

The next 4-6 hours was spent cursing, followed by bouts of hammering and feeble attempts to remove 6 bolts. I managed to only get one from the passengers out with moderately low effort. The other two wouldn't budge. ON the drivers side, one came out with almost no effort. The other two fought, one lightly and one heavily. However, with the aid of a BFH, a breaker bar, and a few undersized sockets they eventually gave up. I also managed to get one more from he passengers side with the same method.


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mdnky

DOH!
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03.17.2024 (cont...cont...)

That last bolt on the passenger's side (first one I tried originally) just didn't cooperate. I went from the 15mm, to a 9/16 hammered on, to 14mm hammered on...no luck, just rounded it more and more.

Started to look for other options. I only had access to a 4.5" grinder ATM, which wouldn't fit in the space available. I brought out the sawz all, with the idea of cutting the washer enough to chisel it out...maybe make it a bit easier to get the PB Blaster in there. Cheap blades...and only having two of them...killed that idea.

So I grabbed a small tapered hand file and began to remove materials from the edges I could (only 3) get access to. Then attempted (failed) to hammer a 13mm onto the devil bolt. Probably wasted about a half hour or so on this, before deciding it wasn't worth continuing.

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About this time I remembered the band-file belt sander from Harbor Freight I purchased last weekend. It seemed like a good idea at the time, plus I figured it'd come in handy for cleaning up some of the tight spaces in the frame. So I decided the bolt must be decapitated...there was no other way. In retrospect, there might have been another way...but I just REALLY wanted to see that bolt destroyed.

So I unboxed the new sander and went to work with the belt that came on it (maybe 80grit or 120grit). After about 3-4 minutes, progress had definitely been made.

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Then I remembered ordering a variety pack of 1/2x18 belts...so I found those and installed a 36grit belt. Needless to say, things went relatively quickly from there. (Sidenote: it was strangely satisfying to watch the bolt's head just melt away in a shower of sparks...)

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