'92 C1500 4.3L 5 speed. Unable to shift with engine running.

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_slxck

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Agree'd with everything above. Your trans is fine and the clutch replacement should fix your problems.

But DeCaff2007 said to replace the flywheel as well, I just want to repeat that. Its fairly cheap and since your in there its worth it to know that everything is new and straight. I always consider the flywheel as part of a standard clutch replacement.

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I look at it the same way, I always replace the flywheel and the one in the truck now has some pretty significant hotspots. I have a complete clutch kit and flywheel laying around that was installed in my old truck that has right around 1,000 miles on it. I was thinking about using that clutch/flywheel and just buying a new throwout bearing but the old truck had a 5.7L and one thing I noticed is the 4.3L flywheel is much heavier. Is this for balance purposes or? Think it would do any harm if I used the V8 flywheel on a V6?
 

0xDEADBEEF

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I look at it the same way, I always replace the flywheel and the one in the truck now has some pretty significant hotspots. I have a complete clutch kit and flywheel laying around that was installed in my old truck that has right around 1,000 miles on it. I was thinking about using that clutch/flywheel and just buying a new throwout bearing but the old truck had a 5.7L and one thing I noticed is the 4.3L flywheel is much heavier. Is this for balance purposes or? Think it would do any harm if I used the V8 flywheel on a V6?

A heavier flywheel is easier to take off from a stop. The 4.3 makes less torque and you would probably have to ride the clutch more to get going.
 

DeCaff2007

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Ok am I the only seeing the rear main seal issue here? That's more than just friction disc material. That's oil soaked.
 

1998_K1500_Sub

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I like the way you think.

Unfortunately gas is $5/gal and I'm already broke daily driving my Volkswagen.

I hear you. I haven’t driven my Suburban since last fall b/c of fuel prices).

But think about this: An 8.1L punched and stroked to 8.6L would give you twice the engine you already have… safe and effective, all in one easy to swallow package.
 

_slxck

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Ok am I the only seeing the rear main seal issue here? That's more than just friction disc material. That's oil soaked.
Yeah it is a bit wet, the oil pan definitely leaks as well but I'm not to keen on putting any money into this truck that I don't have to. I bought this thing for $400 to use temporarily until I finish putting my '95 together. Previous owner hit a deer with this one (the '92) at ~70mph on I-380 and the front end was fubar. I was ready to scrap my old '96 due to extreme rust issues anyways so I pulled the parts I needed and fixed this one before doing so.
 
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DeCaff2007

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Yeah it is a bit wet, the oil pan definitely leaks as well but I'm not to keen on putting any money into this truck that I don't have to. I bought this thing for $400 to use temporarily until I finish putting my '95 together. Previous owner hit a deer with this one (the '92) at ~70mph on I-380 and the front end was fubar. I was ready to scrap my old '96 due to extreme rust issues anyways so I pulled the parts I needed and fixed this one before doing so.

Good call.

If there's oil saturating the friction disc - or any other part of the clutch for that matter - a new clutch kit will suffer the same fate, sooner than later.

Now I'm wondering if that's the problem with my own junk. I hope not. I don't want to have to pull the friggen engine this close to being ready for inspection.
 
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