1999 tahoe 4×4 brake trouble

[east302]

Drivers side front pad

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It looks like the backing plate has some pry marks on it or something. How well does the drum fit?

Shoes look fine and I think that the spraying at the master cylinder is normal.

What size bubbles were you seeing? Large ones or a bunch of tiny ones like when the hose leaks where it attaches to the bleeder screw?




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[R422b]

That was from 4 years ago trying to get the drums off. The drums were replaced then. I was bleeding them manually. My wife pressed the pedal and i opened and closed the bleeder. It was just some small bubbles at the start of every stream. Like the wheel cylinder was leaking a bit on the up stroke. Or thats my thought. I wondered if the residual pressure valve might be bad.

 

[R422b]

Well not much new but. I read somewhere that setting the parking brake adjusts the shoes. Can anyone confirm or dismiss that? Just in case that may be true I have been trying to firmly set the parking brake at least once a day and the brakes seem much better over all but it may just be the fresh fluid and less air. They still act up some times but much less often and it is very tolerable now. If anyone has any more suggestions i would greatly apreciate it. I wont be happy till it stops like it did in 1999 but i was too young then to remember so any help is apreciated.

 

[east302]

That style (duo servo) adjusts by applying the brakes while moving in reverse. The other style (leading trailing) supposedly adjusts by applying the parking brake, releasing it and then applying the regular brakes.

Your setup has the advantage of being able to manually adjust the shoes with the drum on.


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[R422b]

How do you manually adjust them? There are no adjusting holes in the backing plate that i can see.

 

[east302]

There should be a rubber plug at the bottom (6 o’clock position) where you can use a brake spoon or screwdriver to turn the wheel.

Skip to about 16:00 and he shows it...

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[R422b]

There are some imprints on the metal but they are not popped through. We tried knocking them out with a cold chisel and sledge but it would not budge. That is why we had to pry the old drums off last time. Is there a way to knock them out without an air hammer or something?

 

[Urambo Tauro]

I used a rotary (Dremel) tool to cut mine out. Your local parts store should have the rubber plugs you need to cover them back up.

 

[Coveman]

I had to drill a hole in the backing plate to adjust my drums, they stamp an oval slot that you drill through.

I think we just have front abs on our trucks, and the drums normally do like 20 percent of the total braking. When the drums are adjusted properly you normally get a better pedal feel, less spongy

 

[R422b]

Good idea. Anyone know why are they solid to begin with?